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  #1  
Old 10-07-2012, 05:40 PM
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michics michics is offline
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Location: Rockford, Illinois
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Default 782 Starting Issue

My 782 is running perfect. Shut it off and now starting circuit is not working. Turn the key to start and nothing.

However I can start it by shorting the starter solenoid terminals and it runs fine.

This is what I've done so far.

-by passed the safety switches ( for testing only )

-replaced the solenoid

-checked for loss wires.

Everything is as it should be.

Next thing I'm thinking is the ignition switch. Could the start part of the switch just stop working ??

If it's not the switch then what else is there ?

I'm open to ideas.

Mike
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  #2  
Old 10-07-2012, 06:39 PM
teejk teejk is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by michics View Post
My 782 is running perfect. Shut it off and now starting circut is not working. Turn the key to start and nothing.

However I can start it by shorting the starter solenoid terminals and it runs fine.

This is what I've done so far.

-by passed the safety switches ( for testing only )

-replaced the solenoid

-checked for loss wires.

Everything is as it should be.

Next thing I'm thinking is the ignition switch. Could the start part of the switch just stop working ??

If it's not the switch then what else is there ?

I'm open to ideas.

Mike
dunno about the 782's, but my 1250 eats switches like popcorn (more so now since MTD now supplies them at my CC dealer...they are junk I think). on the 1250 the contacts are pretty close together and corrode quickly causing what I think is shorting.

internally I think they can get "loose" and prevent the battery from charging (had one a few years ago that I had to "wiggle" while I watched to charging meter).

pull it and clean it up...see if it helps
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  #3  
Old 10-07-2012, 06:46 PM
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Sam Mac Sam Mac is offline
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Location: Galax VA
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Originally Posted by teejk View Post
dunno about the 782's, but my 1250 eats switches like popcorn (more so now since MTD now supplies them at my CC dealer...they are junk I think). on the 1250 the contacts are pretty close together and corrode quickly causing what I think is shorting.

internally I think they can get "loose" and prevent the battery from charging (had one a few years ago that I had to "wiggle" while I watched to charging meter).

pull it and clean it up...see if it helps
Fixed all that crap on my 1210 with a toggle switch and a push button for the starter. It wouldn't start one too many times in the winter when I needed it to plow snow. The Cub wiring harness went in the trash can. Never failed to start or run as it should since. Not one safety switch on it. No I will not tell you how to do it and No I will not sell it as it is, I know the drill.
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  #4  
Old 10-07-2012, 07:11 PM
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michics michics is offline
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I'll do some power tracing through the switch and see what I can learn.

I had the switch out recently and it is old and corroded. The previous owner had power washed the entire tractor and let it rust. I've had to free up everything that moves from the rust.

I kind of like that idea of a toggle and starter button. Don't have to worry about lost key either.
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  #5  
Old 10-07-2012, 07:14 PM
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Sam Mac Sam Mac is offline
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Originally Posted by michics View Post
I'll do some power tracing through the switch and see what I can learn.

I had the switch out recently and it is old and corroded. The previous owner had power washed the entire tractor and let it rust. I've had to free up everything that moves from the rust.

I kind of like that idea of a toggle and starter button. Don't have to worry about lost key either.
Yep let's wash it and rust it, Gotta love the PO keeping it clean.

Key? We don't need no stinkin Key
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  #6  
Old 10-07-2012, 09:51 PM
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fhadderton fhadderton is offline
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If all the new switches are junk why not change to an old style chevrolet or even a John Deere, I have changed several in years past on my big row crop tractors and none have given any trouble since.
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