782 Starting Issue
 

My 782 is running perfect. Shut it off and now starting circuit is not working. Turn the key to start and nothing.

However I can start it by shorting the starter solenoid terminals and it runs fine.

This is what I've done so far.

-by passed the safety switches ( for testing only )

-replaced the solenoid

-checked for loss wires.

Everything is as it should be.

Next thing I'm thinking is the ignition switch. Could the start part of the switch just stop working ??

If it's not the switch then what else is there ?

I'm open to ideas.

Mike :bigthink:

dunno about the 782's, but my 1250 eats switches like popcorn (more so now since MTD now supplies them at my CC dealer...they are junk I think). on the 1250 the contacts are pretty close together and corrode quickly causing what I think is shorting.

internally I think they can get "loose" and prevent the battery from charging (had one a few years ago that I had to "wiggle" while I watched to charging meter).

pull it and clean it up...see if it helps

Fixed all that crap on my 1210 with a toggle switch and a push button for the starter. It wouldn't start one too many times in the winter when I needed it to plow snow. The Cub wiring harness went in the trash can. Never failed to start or run as it should since. Not one safety switch on it. No I will not tell you how to do it and No I will not sell it as it is, I know the drill. :biggrin2:

I'll do some power tracing through the switch and see what I can learn.

I had the switch out recently and it is old and corroded. The previous owner had power washed the entire tractor and let it rust. I've had to free up everything that moves from the rust.

I kind of like that idea of a toggle and starter button. Don't have to worry about lost key either.

Yep let's wash it and rust it, Gotta love the PO keeping it clean.

Key? We don't need no stinkin Key :biggrin2:

If all the new switches are junk why not change to an old style chevrolet or even a John Deere, I have changed several in years past on my big row crop tractors and none have given any trouble since.

Methinks there's something else wrong that he needs to fix...it should not be eating switches like that.

I don't think so. Everything works fine (i.e generator, starter, grounds) but the switches corrode very quickly (the A, S, and B terminals are very close together. It could be that the OEM plug was missing when I bought it, converted to separate spade connectors). I've seen that others have the same thing and I wonder if there was a problem with it.

You're the first person I have ever heard of having trouble with new OEM switches. Since this doesn't seem to be a widespread problem, I stand by what I've said before...something else is wrong.

The connectors that are in the plug for the switch can corrode, then they arc removing the plating on the switch spades.
then they rust and it is a vicious circle.
Many times you will see a melted plug, a sure sign that the arcing is taking place.
Replacing the terminals in the plug will cure the problem.