Dave's 1650 Project - Page 52

CADplans · #**511** 11-03-2011, 09:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Oak

Great post Dave. Stick with it. If this cleaning of the carb doesn't get it do you think something could be one tooth off inside the engine causing a timing issue? Good luck.

I agree with Oak, the only time the carb'd Chevys I played with as a kid would backfire, the timing was off. The carb was never to blame.

Those car rebuild TV shows always mis-time there new engines to get flames out of the carb for "drama" when they install a new engine! Will they get the car done before the deadline??!! Go to commercial

.

It is easy to mis-time the cam, that would be my next item to look at.........

CC1650Dave · #**512** 11-03-2011, 11:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Oak

...do you think something could be one tooth off inside the engine causing a timing issue?

I'm certain I got the timing marks correct on reassembly. It's something I paid a lot of attention to.

If I can do the static timing method, and the "S" is dead on in the peep hole when the points break, I'd have to have the cam and crank timing correct, wouldn't I?

Wouldn't it be the case that the "S" mark couldn't be in the window at break, if the gears were off a tooth?

CHWNY · #**513** 11-03-2011, 12:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CC1650Dave

I'm certain I got the timing marks correct on reassembly. It's something I paid a lot of attention to.

If I can do the static timing method, and the "S" is dead on in the peep hole when the points break, I'd have to have the cam and crank timing correct, wouldn't I?

Wouldn't it be the case that the "S" mark couldn't be in the window at break, if the gears were off a tooth?

I think the cam could be off 1 tooth either way, you are the only one that will know for sure! I need to reread your whole post before I make any further suggestions. I don't want to send you chasing your tail, Unless you like that!

As a rule carbs don't cause back-fire I have had some that dump fuel, you would have gas all over. The air filter will make a difference but only fine tuning, unless clogged. You could have bad Ign. components NEW doesn't mean good. I know it is frustrating after a lot of work but your missing something You'll get it!

CADplans · #**514** 11-03-2011, 01:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CC1650Dave

I'm certain I got the timing marks correct on reassembly. It's something I paid a lot of attention to.

If I can do the static timing method, and the "S" is dead on in the peep hole when the points break, I'd have to have the cam and crank timing correct, wouldn't I?

Wouldn't it be the case that the "S" mark couldn't be in the window at break, if the gears were off a tooth?

Timing is a generic term denoting proper alignment of the sequence of events to cause rotation of the crankshaft from fuel combustion.

There are many items that could cause mis-timing

Plug wire

condenser

coil

points

ignition switch

battery voltage

spark plug

improper ground

etc..............

Methos · #**515** 11-03-2011, 02:03 PM

Dave if you have a timing light give that a try. I love Matt's static timing guide and still use it but love using the timing light. I paid $35 for mine from O'Reilly's auto parts store.

jo1429 · #**516** 11-03-2011, 08:08 PM

Kohler engine manual says to rotate engine just past where the points break until they reach their widest opening, then adjust to .020 at that point. just something quick that may get you running. I have point savers installed, so it has the timing light built in.

Methos · #**517** 11-03-2011, 08:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jo1429

Kohler engine manual says to rotate engine just past where the points break until they reach their widest opening, then adjust to .020 at that point. just something quick that may get you running. I have point savers installed, so it has the timing light built in.

The only problem with that is that .020 doesn't mean the timing is set right. It gets it close. I think someone posted that they checked their gap and it was .037!

CC1650Dave · #**518** 11-03-2011, 10:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Methos

The only problem with that is that .020 doesn't mean the timing is set right. It gets it close. I think someone posted that they checked their gap and it was .037!

That was me Duke. I was asking the question since I set the timing while it was on the bench via the static method, and found my gap to be that large.

Can anyone confirm or deny the idea that if I have the S showing in the peep hole on the money as the points open, then by default the camshaft and crankshaft gears must be in time?

Methos · #**519** 11-03-2011, 10:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CC1650Dave

That was me Duke. I was asking the question since I set the timing while it was on the bench via the static method, and found my gap to be that large.

Can anyone confirm or deny the idea that if I have the S showing in the peep hole on the money as the points open, then by default the camshaft and crankshaft gears must be in time?

I knew it was someone here that posted that.

The S in sight hole doesn't mean the cam and crank are in time just means that's when you have your points opening up. Ask around maybe you can borrow a timing light or do a free tool rental at the auto parts store. You'll have to place a deposit but they will refund it once you return the timming light.

Sugarmaker · #**520** 11-03-2011, 10:29 PM

Dave,
I had the same question, as I was timing my K321. Yea I was questioning if I had the cam and the crank in the right location too. I used Matt's static timing with a ohm meter technique. I guess If I were you PM Matt and ask. He seems real knowledgeable on this and many other subjects.
Regards,
Chris