Rear wheel spacers behind 23x8.50 tires

[CADplans]

OK, so my idea for stabilizing the Cub with reversed front wheels was met with negativity, rightfully so. The axle pivots at the frame.

I have a piece of steel, 13.5 inches wide, 48 inches long, and 1 1/4 inches thick.

Plan "B" is to;
Torch cut the steel into 2 discs 1 1/4 inch thick, that will fit in the rear of the wheel. Drill 5 holes matching the 5x4.50 bolt pattern of the wheels.

Install Grade 8 studs long enough to allow the spacer and wheel to be installed with lug nuts.


This will result in;
Tread width increase (wider)

Some added low center of gravity weight.

The width should be about the same as 23x10.5 tires.

I like the idea of stabilizing the tractor with added width rather than lots of wheel weight as a lighter machine feels more "nimble". I want to plow snow around the house with this one, it may also do some garden cart duty (move mulch).

Am I heading in the correct direction this time?? Or am I causing a disaster waiting to happen??

[Darrell]

Cub actually made just what you are talking about , or somebody did. I have seen a few for sale , and have a set on my loader tractor.

If you have some extra axles , just cut the axle shaft off and use the hub. Probably about any GT hub will work. Would probably save you some work , if you have the extra axles around.

[Leon renaud]

Originally Posted by CADplans

OK, so my idea for stabilizing the Cub with reversed front wheels was met with negativity, rightfully so. The axle pivots at the frame.

I have a piece of steel, 13.5 inches wide, 48 inches long, and 1 1/4 inches thick.

Plan "B" is to;
Torch cut the steel into 2 discs 1 1/4 inch thick, that will fit in the rear of the wheel. Drill 5 holes matching the 5x4.50 bolt pattern of the wheels.

Install Grade 8 studs long enough to allow the spacer and wheel to be installed with lug nuts.


This will result in;
Tread width increase (wider)

Some added low center of gravity weight.

The width should be about the same as 23x10.5 tires.

I like the idea of stabilizing the tractor with added width rather than lots of wheel weight as a lighter machine feels more "nimble". I want to plow snow around the house with this one, it may also do some garden cart duty (move mulch).

Am I heading in the correct direction this time?? Or am I causing a disaster waiting to happen??

I'd look into buying a pair of dual wheel adapters bolt the adapter right to the hub then bolt the wheel to the outer end.This would widen the rear track about 12 inches.Why do you think you need to stabilize your Cub just how steep is your property?

[gcbailey]

check out xtrememotorworks Aaron already has them pre-cut so you can check it out.

I'll also add that a heavy tractor still feels pretty nimble, unless you way the front end down a lot. I'm running carlisle x-tracs on the front (snower blower tires) and it gives plenty of grip along with making the steering feel lighter, almost like tri-ribs or poor mans power steering. Unless you want to run chains plowing snow I would add all the weight that you can.

[Matt G.]

Originally Posted by Leon renaud

I'd look into buying a pair of dual wheel adapters bolt the adapter right to the hub then bolt the wheel to the outer end.This would widen the rear track about 12 inches.Why do you think you need to stabilize your Cub just how steep is your property?

That's a great way to break off an axle flange.

[CADplans]

The reason I ask this is I am used to a 1872, no fluid, no weights.

The slightest off grade and the 1000 with the 23x8.50's and a rear wheel comes off the ground ( yea, I'm a big guy, that doesn't help lower the center of gravity!!).

Only slightly heavier than the 1000, my 1872 sticks to the ground. It must be something to do with the track width, or possibly the wheel base??


Should I move the front axle forward???? Hmmmmmm!!!!

Na, I will try to get the wheel weight/spacers cut this week.