Cub 149 Resto-mod - Page 16

westofb · #**151** 08-23-2011, 01:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bocephus1991

Heah there Jeff! Looks great! your doing an awesome job on your resto-mod! I think the red looks great! Saw in a earlier post you got some tires from Morrow,I got a set of deestone ags for my 1200 to go all around it.I haven't got much done on it this summer,the restore money kinda dried up a few months back,but still been getting some done on mine.Was wondering you used vansickle paint did you have any trouble with it interacting with the self etching primer? Or any of the rustoluem primers? I'm gonna use vansickle on mine. Looks great!

I only had the etching primer on the engine tins, I think it was some duplicolor brand, just what I had sitting around to keep the tins from rusting after they were bead blasted. On some of the sheet metal, I did use the vansickle red oxide primer, it is very easily scratched, have to be careful handling the primed parts, but it does sand out nicely and gave me a good base for the vansickle paint. On the engine, I light hit the tins with a fine scotch bright pad before painting them, the block was left unprimed, just shot the tractor paint right over it. I totally assembled the engine before painting, that way all the nuts and bolts look pretty and no worries scratching anything had it been painted in pieces.

I was originally going to used dupont base clear on the tractor, but seemed to me that vansickle was getting a bad rap, so I went that way...it also saved me a few hundred bucks to boot. If you take your time, use the hardner/ catalyst, apply it in numerous (4-6) thin coats, the vansickle comes out looking great. After everything sits for a couple weeks (once I get them all painted red!), I will apply 3-4 coats of automotive clear coat to the sheet metal parts to give them a little extra bling, I have a friend that did that to an S10 pickup (vansickle transport/ safety yellow, two weeks later, dupont automotive clear coat), it looks great!

Yes, I got my tires at Morrow's, they were by far the cheapest place to buy garden tractor tires, I would recommend them to anyone, anywhere, their prices are hard to beat, even if you need them shipped! (I am in no way connected to Morrow Tire, just plugging them for free, check them out if you need tires!)

bocephus1991 · #**152** 08-23-2011, 08:53 AM

Did you shoot the primer with a spray gun or rattle can it? Yeah Morrow does have the best deals on tires went there myself!

westofb · #**153** 08-24-2011, 04:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bocephus1991

Did you shoot the primer with a spray gun or rattle can it? Yeah Morrow does have the best deals on tires went there myself!

The etching primer was in a rattle can, the vansickle red oxide primer was applied with a hvlp gun.

I have used vansickle paint quite a bit, and never have had any interactions with whatever it was applied to, it is very good at adhering to most anything, it will even stick to grease...LOL! If you decide to try it, wear a respirator, and I would recommend covering exposed skin, the overspray vapors will adhere to anything, skin, hair, eyelids, shop floor, etc.

scgtguy · #**154** 08-24-2011, 08:41 AM

Hi Jeff,

thats looking great ....

B.

westofb · #**155** 08-26-2011, 07:16 PM

It lives!!!!!!!!!!!

After getting the wiring finished (temporary wiring for my test frame), getting the points set (I did not have a test meter to set it, had do do it static like it shows in the service manual, kind of a pita, but I got them set), and getting the gas tank rigged up, I tried it out. At first, nothing, checked the spark plug, it had good fire, so I turned my attention to the carb. It has been rebuilt and setting in a box for nearly 4 months, I think the needle had stuck in the seat....tapped it lightly with the handle of my screw driver near the fuel inlet, and she fired right up! Here is a link to the youtube video (excuse the angle and quality, I only have an iphone to take digital videos with)...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m24QpPIm_Zw

It sounds pretty good, just needs a little fine tuning of the carb and the governor, but that can be done once it gets moved to the 149 chassis. Oh, excuse the length and width of the exhaust stack, I will trim it down once it is in the tractor and the hood is on!

CC1650Dave · #**156** 08-26-2011, 09:40 PM

Sweet Jeff. I don't remember reading, but how'd you set your governor at 3600 R's? I've been reviewing different ways to measure it.

I think I'm leaning toward just getting the in-dash tach that I want now instead of later. I'd spend about as much buying a hand-held tach or something.

westofb · #**157** 08-26-2011, 10:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CC1650Dave

Sweet Jeff. I don't remember reading, but how'd you set your governor at 3600 R's? I've been reviewing different ways to measure it.

I think I'm leaning toward just getting the in-dash tach that I want now instead of later. I'd spend about as much buying a hand-held tach or something.

It still needs adjustment, the way the throttle bracket is made, I can't fully adjust it until it is in the dash. Out of the dash, as it is now, there are basically no stops for the low speed throttle adjustment, the dash itself serves as the stops. For the initial setting, I put everything back together as it was when I took it apart, pics were real handy get the linkages hooked up. Once it is together, I will try to get it all dial in properly. I just wanted to get it close while in the chopped up frame, once in the tractor, you can't get to the bottom screw on the points cover. I am real happy with the way it sounds, but a little more work still needs to be done.

I am not 100% sure, but I believe the governor itself will set the maximum rpms somewhere close to there...once you cross the maximum rpm limits of the governor, it will react (move the governor arm) and lower the engine rpms. For that reason, lots of the pullers (in open/ unlimited classes) will remove the governor, there is a you tube video of a kohler k series engine turning 8800 rpms! I don't have a tach, so I will get it set by ear (if anything, I may get it set a little low, I will set it a few hundred rpms less than the point the governor reacts to lower the engine maximum speed, but I do have a running 129 to compare it too), I had to replace some of the linkage parts to the carb, and need to get them set right so the governor acts right as you put a load on it, may have to adjust the spring placement as well.

I too have been thinking about investing in the dash mounted tach....go for fine tuning and the cool factor!

Methos · #**158** 08-26-2011, 10:08 PM

Great video Jeff! I love the red engine!

Matt G. · #**159** 08-26-2011, 10:27 PM

Unless someone removed it, the carb has an idle speed adjustment screw, so there's no need to have the throttle cable in the dash to set that.

The governor will set the maximum RPM to whatever it's set at, so you have to set it correctly. Re-set the governor arm with the procedure in the service manual, and put the spring where it says to in the manual, as well. I have never had an engine in a CC that needed to have the spring somewhere other than the factory location. Read, understand, and follow the manual's procedure, or you will drive yourself insane.

CC1650Dave · #**160** 08-26-2011, 10:32 PM

There's a good bit on the CubFaq as well, mostly clippings from the service manual.