Dave's 1650 Project

[ACecil]

Glad it worked out, Dave!

[_DX3_]

Glad to hear all went really good. As for the ring compressor, it's actually pretty easy to get the rings in without one, I just use an extra small straight slot screwdriver to get each ring started into the bore and work my way around. It goes pretty quick. The compressor works even better .

[Matt G.]

That must be a stellite exhaust valve then if it isn't magnetic. Glad to hear everything is working out for you now

[Sugarmaker]

Dave,
Recovery is EVERYTHING! Nice job on the details and you will sleep much better!
Regards,
Chris

[CC1650Dave]

Matt, to catch up on your earlier query:

Originally Posted by Matt G.

Your comment about the stem diameter supports my overall distrust of aftermarket parts. Since your aftermarket valves are about 2 thou undersize, you will probably lose oil through the valve guides, particularly if you did not replace the valve guides. Do the valves wobble in the guides? If so, you will have problems sooner or later, if not, you may not. Have you measured the stems of the valves you removed?

I did measure my original valve stems, way back in the thread. But I used the same caliper that I mis-measured these with, so they may have been fine.

The machinist checked the valves in the guides with me watching, and they were solid. In fact, when I first picked up the block I had the valves in hand and he wound up reaming out the exhaust valve guide a little. If you recall, the engine had a stuck exhaust valve when I got it.

Everything looks pretty good here, and I did actually get a pretty good feeling about this guy this time around. He knows his stuff. The company he works for is a big regional tractor service shop, so he's working on big tractor engines as well as garden tractor engines every day.

[CC1650Dave]

Time to start putting the K341 back together.

I'm going to do this in detailed fashion, as much as I can document, for two reasons:

1) So you guys that know what you're doing can catch any mistakes I might make (so watch closely and let me know!,) provide better ideas, and...

2) To show things in much greater detail than the service manual, so guys like myself who haven't done this before can feel more confident about doing the job, and can reference this build-up when they do it themselves.

I'll use the Kohler Service Manual's numbered order of reassembly steps:

[CC1650Dave]

After sitting disassembled for a while, there was some mild surface rust present on the bearing assembly and the seat it goes in, so I gave them a quick hit with steel wool (until I started thinking about fragments hanging out) and then a 1200 grit paper. I then blew them out with compressed air to get any dust or steel wool out.

Here's the seat for the bearing:
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I gave the surfaces a light coating of engine oil to help it go in a little easier. Here's the bearing sitting in place ready to drive it in. Mine is a shielded type bearing, so the shielding goes on the inside:
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I then laid it flat on the bench, and (lacking a #4747 handle and appropriate bearing installer) used a piece of 2x4 to drive it into place:
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And here it is, seated (a bit blurry, but you get the point)
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Some concern about dust, dirt, and wood particles on this procedure, but I blew it all out again with compressed air. I can't do this in a medical clean room after all, and I'll change out that first oil early.

[CC1650Dave]

I purchased a new governor gear, cross shaft, and bushing (the brass nut/bushing that screws in from outside) at a cost of around $65. This is recommended by most of the guys on OCC.

The shaft goes in first:
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Here is your governor gear. You'll note that the pin sticks up when centrifugal force expands the weights:
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That pin will push up on the lever that is welded to the shaft.
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This thin washer came with the new governor gear. I don't have any record of this washer on disassembly (and I haven't looked through my old parts yet) but I figure it has to go on the pin the governor gear sits on, before the governor gear. It lays flat and hides up there, so it's possible I never noticed it on disassembly.
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So I put it in place on the pin:
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Then pushed the lever up so there's room to get the governor gear in place:
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And installed the gear:
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Next this spacer over the shaft from the outside:
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And then the bushing.
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The service manual shows a "plain washer" in here, but I don't see one in my disassembly pics. Again, I'll have to check the parts (I'll update this post after I do, it's late...)

The bushing gets tightened to 100-120 inch lbs, per the manual.

And that's as far as I got tonight. I haven't put the stop pin in yet.
<edit 9/12/11 - Just now adding the pics of the stop pin>

The stop pin and copper washer go in last:







The manual mentions turning the gear to assure that the stop pin isn't hitting the weights.

<End of 9/12/11 edit>

This bit from the service manual confuses me:

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I'm guessing they refer to the "plain washer" as a speed control disc here (?) And I don't know about this riveted extension - mine probably doesn't have it.

And I'm guessing the "thrust washer" is the one I put on the pin under the governor gear. Just checking...

[Matt G.]

Those shields need to be removed from the bearings...how are they going to get any oil with the shield on? Also, mineral spirits is a good way to remove dirt, abrasive particles, etc.

[_DX3_]

Originally Posted by Matt G.

Those shields need to be removed from the bearings...how are they going to get any oil with the shield on? Also, mineral spirits is a good way to remove dirt, abrasive particles, etc.

Yep, those bearings won't last very long and will be an expensive boo boo.

They need to be open to get oil: