Dave's 1650 Project - Page 14

CC1650Dave · #**131** 07-19-2011, 02:35 AM

...And thanks for the offer on the deck Tyler, although I'd guess that with you in Canada and all, it wouldn't be feasible to get one down here.

All he lost was the deck housing, pulley cover, and stiffening plate. Everything else is in my garage. He should be able to come up with something locally.

We'll see what kind of businessman he is. It'd be easy to let this sit on the back burner forever, while I have to nag him about it. Or worse yet, it could get to the point that I have to get all nasty about it.

I'd expect he can get the parts he lost, and then it'd be wise of him to sandblast them for free.

westofb · #**132** 07-19-2011, 02:46 AM

See pic in post 133, the mystery part. I believe that is part of your throttle linkage, however it is missing the set screw. This mounts to the throttle linkage by passing through a hole in the throttle arm, the small hole in the side of it is were the throttle cable goes through, and the smaller end should be threaded were a set screw tightens against the throttle cable to hold it in place.

CC1650Dave · #**133** 07-19-2011, 02:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by westofb

See pic in post 133, the mystery part. I believe that is part of your throttle linkage, however it is missing the set screw. This mounts to the throttle linkage by passing through a hole in the throttle arm, the small hole in the side of it is were the throttle cable goes through, and the smaller end should be threaded were a set screw tightens against the throttle cable to hold it in place.

That's what I was thinking too westofb - thanks! Now all you need to do is come up to MI and I'll buy you that beer. Or several of them

Methos · #**134** 07-19-2011, 03:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CC1650Dave

I feel this is a good time to say this:

There's over 3,000 views of this thread at the time, and 125 posts - 99% of which are mine.

I know how I work when someone's asking a lot of questions - I feel like I need to answer all of them, or know exactly what I'm talking about.

Please don't get caught up in this. If you know anything about what I'm doing, chip in! If you did the same thing to a different model, or whatever, offer your advice. If you only know a part answer, offer your two cents.

Remember, I'm a noob. A guy who has never done this stuff. A bunch of questions have gone unanswered, and forced me to read more and take some guesses (aghast!) but it's coming along.

You're not only helping me, but many others who will read this thread to learn about what they're doing.

Thanks!
Dave

Dave your doing a fine job! I've been doing to much reading of this thread but not much posting. Don't let that slow you or stop you! Keep going we're all still here!

CC1650Dave · #**135** 07-19-2011, 03:11 AM

Thanks Methos, you've added some great stuff so far.

I've noticed that threads dedicated to a specific question often get several responses, but I don't want to litter the forum with a bunch of new threads, and I'd kind of like to keep the questions here in context for other people that are following this project and using the information from it.

Like I said, it's easy to kind of lose track of the questions within all of this. I've even neglected to go back and complete the answers to things I've figured out myself, so when I get some time I'll put together a post of those solutions.

CC1650Dave · #**136** 07-19-2011, 03:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by young enthusiest

... when you take the rear cover off to drain the oil, then I will explain where the play occurs and how to fix it. .

The rear cover is off, so tell me what you know Tyler...

Matt G. · #**137** 07-19-2011, 09:21 AM

The grinding on the crank is normal and is probably where the factory ground off casting flash. QL engines didn't always have balance gears...it's possible nobody's been in there before.

CC1650Dave · #**138** 07-19-2011, 11:20 AM

huh, I didn't know that. Based on the serial number, this one was made in '77.

Add the fact that it was missing the two front engine bolts, and it gets more likely that it's been opened up.

CC1650Dave · #**139** 07-19-2011, 01:15 PM

Rear end stuff:

I picked up an o-ring from Pep Boys that matches the dimensions specified in the partfinder (2-3/8 X 2-1/2 X 1/16) but I do not know if it is a "Class 5" or not. I did some reading and apparently the class has to do with size tolerances due to shrinkage after molding. Now I'm thinking I'd better get an IH specified ring. I got the one I have for a good price - free... but I don't want to get hosed by going cheap here.

I'm picking up the CR 6204 seal from Napa today, about $6.

I'm thinking I may want to go ahead and pull the axles, replacing the seals, checking the needle bearings, and replacing the gaskets there. Seems like these would be obvious leakers after all these years, no?

Methos · #**140** 07-19-2011, 02:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CC1650Dave

Rear end stuff:

I picked up an o-ring from Pep Boys that matches the dimensions specified in the partfinder (2-3/8 X 2-1/2 X 1/16) but I do not know if it is a "Class 5" or not. I did some reading and apparently the class has to do with size tolerances due to shrinkage after molding. Now I'm thinking I'd better get an IH specified ring. I got the one I have for a good price - free... but I don't want to get hosed by going cheap here.

I'm picking up the CR 6204 seal from Napa today, about $6.

I'm thinking I may want to go ahead and pull the axles, replacing the seals, checking the needle bearings, and replacing the gaskets there. Seems like these would be obvious leakers after all these years, no?

With all the work that your doing replace them. I'm not sure if it will make a diffrence but your in there now so best to do them. You could get a o-ring set from harbour frieght for $10 and have lots of spares.