Dave's 1650 Project

[CC1650Dave]

Now it's time to "Split the Tractor" - I think that's a funny phrase. But anyway, here we go:

First I removed this speed control linkage that was just kind of hanging out to get it out of the way:
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Then I removed the hydraulics from the steering column by taking off the U-bolts. I noted that it was mounted kind of cockeyed, and took pictures of it to remind myself of the angle. Is that a space-constraint thing, or was mine just that way?

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Then I removed the piston for the hydraulic lift:
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Then disconnected the rod from the steering, and pulled the two bolts holding the steering column to the frame, and it's out:

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Then I disconnected two linkages (can't name them, but here's pics) and a spring:

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Blocked up the front of the differential;
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Removed the two brackets and two more bolts from each side...
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And voila, we have a split tractor:




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At this point, I'm admiring the elegance in simplicity of these tractors. Such a big, powerful, long lasting tractor, and such simple assembly.

I had a moment while cleaning out the engine area of the frame where I was feeling a bond with my 1650. I think I heard the big tractor purr from the care it was getting after all these years.

[CC1650Dave]

And lastly for this evening, after some cleaning of the rear end, I put down some newspaper and pulled the hydraulic lines.
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Here's a look at the hydro oil. I don't have much experience evaluating this, but at least it ain't black:

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I think I'd like to put some kind of cap nuts over those fittings just to keep dirt from getting in and / or oil from coming out. For now, I wrapped them in tape and pinched off the ends to keep dust out.


And here is the offending part when it comes to the seized up forward/reverse/speed control. Right here at this pivot point, the thing was stuck like you wouldn't believe.
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So I removed the assembly:

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And the snap ring from the backside:

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And started working it to try and separate the two pieces. After banging on it for a while, I decided to let it soak overnight with penetrating oil.

[CC1650Dave]

Originally Posted by cub1450

When I got my 1450 it had the same problem I loosend that nut all the way up and it still wouldn`t budge.I had to spray the linkage with pb blaster and let it soak overnight and I had to bump the plate back and forth with a rubber mallet
and it took a little while to get it loose but it drove like a top.

Yep, I see that you had the same issue. I didn't get to read your post until after I had figured it out, but by the time I got things broken down it was easy to spot. Thanks!

[jsoluna]

Wow, it's hard to believe that part there could rust that bad, that thing must have sat for a LONG time in the weather.

[CC1650Dave]

Originally Posted by jsoluna

Wow, it's hard to believe that part there could rust that bad, that thing must have sat for a LONG time in the weather.

I put it in the vise and tapped it back and forth many times today, then finally got the two parts separated.

After cleaning both up with a wire brush, they still want to go back together very tight. I haven't added grease or put them back together because they may as well stay apart for painting, but man - that's tight...

[CC1650Dave]

I'm reading the service manual and trying to determine what all I should do with the rear end while I have the tractor broken down.

Anyone with some tips on the most important things, please chime in!

A couple questions in the early running:

1) Both of my rear wheels have the air valve on the inside of the wheel. What's going on with that? I haven't taken the wheels off yet, but it doesn't look like the wheels have been reversed at first glance.

2) I've noticed when I rotate the whole thing by turning both wheels in opposite directions slightly, the axles will move in and out about 1/8". Bad? Normal?

3) Looking at the service manual, I see they went with two flex discs at the rear (after my tractor's production, because I only have one.) Is this a weak point that should be addressed? I'd imagine you'd need a shorter drive shaft to go with two discs, right?



This rear end seems like the most complex and daunting part of the project...

[young enthusiest]

Wow Man, seems like your really enjoying yourself with this project! that Bond that you felt with your tractor... youve got yellow fever and there isnt any cure. I can totally understand what your saying as for the hydro linkage, those parts that are still really stiff. a wire brush isnt really sufficient. use coarse emery cloth or sandpaper, and keep working up the grits until it is perfectly smooth and very shiny. if you can, take one of those inside wire brushes, the type plumbers use, that work inside a pipe before you solder it, cut it off at the handle and stick it in a drill. that will help shine up the inside surface of the one part. once you got everything nice and shiny, it should pivot a little easier. Good luck and thanks for the pics!

[young enthusiest]

the reason the the tires have the air valves on the inside, is that your rims are not stock....

your axels will have some play like that, it isnt too big of a deal, when it reaches 1/4" or even 1/2" then you have a problem. when you take the rear cover off to drain the oil, then I will explain where the play occurs and how to fix it.

As for your other question, I'm sorry I cant answer that, I'm not really sure what the difference is between the serial number breaks and how that affects the drivshaft assembly.

Looks like your making great progress.

[CC1650Dave]

Thanks Tyler. I'm getting ready to remove the rear cover soon.

So on that pivot point on the linkage, is it OK if I work it to the point that it spins freely? I don't want to over-do it in case it needs to have some kind of resistance to it.

[CC1650Dave]

Of course the rear end has the usual oily crud all over it after all these years. What all do I need to buy to get everything sealed up like new?

I ordered the gasket that goes between the hydro and the diff from the dealer today. He has the rear cover gasket in stock, so I'll pick both of those up next week.

I'm guessing I'm going to want to pull the axles and check out those seals and bearings. Lots to learn there...