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#1
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I have a few questions
Cub Cadet 100 1. what grade gas do you guys run in your older tractors? (A couple of people said that regular now a days has more water in it and it will gum up the carberator a lot faster) 2. what are some of the basic first things you guys do when you get a tractor? (change oil, other maintanece?) thank you guys |
#2
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I personally run 87 Octane in the Summer and in the winter I run 92 Octane.
I would do a tune up and do an over all examination to discover any other problems. Having the Operators and Service Manuals are a BIG plus.
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[B]Roland Bedell[/B] CC Models: 100, 105, 1450, 782, (2) 784, & 2072 [SIZE="4"][B][COLOR="Red"]Buy:[/COLOR][COLOR="Blue"] Made in the USA[/COLOR][/B] [/SIZE]:American Flag 1: |
#3
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1. 89 (the lowest grade sold here) year-round. Just don't let it sit more than 30 days though. Almost all gas you buy these days is E10 and absorbs water because of it.
2. Carb kit and oil change at a minimum...you'll probably find you need to adjust the steering, replace tie rod ends, and rebuild the clutch, too. I'd take the fill plug out of the rear and make sure there's something in there. |
#4
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89 octane gas. Straight 30W oil. Check clean and adjust as necessary the spark plug and points. This should keep fowling and carbon deposits to a minimum. Lube the cables. Clean electrical connections that look green or white or rusty. Check fluid level in the rear end. Grease all the fittings you can find and then look for more. Then look at what is going to cost money. Carb kit, tie rod ends etc. Also when you can pull the head and clean replace with a new gasket. And when you/ if you pull the carb adjust your valves as needed.
All of this just makes driving your new Baby even more fun. |
#5
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I haven't bought a Cub Cadet yet that runs. When I finish rebuilding a Cub it goes on a 30 day gas rule. Any gas (2 and 4 cycle) over 30 days old is added to my Suburban's gas tank. I try to buy enough to cover the 30 days. I will add a fuel stablizer to my gas containers Before I fill them. Two good fuel stablizers are the one made by Briggs and Stratton and Sta-Bil. I've been using Sta-Bil for the last 6 to 7 years. I have not had any fuel related problems. I use 87 octane in all my motors year round. My Son's 86 on steroids runs 89 octane gas.
Gas with ethanol/E10 can absorbs water easily if it isn't stored right. I've been know to run 20% ethanol with no problems. Oil I use Valvoline straight 30 weight dino in the summer and 10W-30 in the winter. I wouldn't used synthetic oil.....every motor I tried synthetic oil in leak. I would change filters (gas-air-oil(if they have one) and trans filter ifit is a hydro. A new spark plug(s) points and condensor and a spark plug wire is a good thing to do too. |
#6
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Anyone have links to these carb kits and step by step instructions? I just got my 149 and would like to redo the carb. Thanks, Marty
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#7
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I run 91 octane that is ethanol-free, and use Sta-bil.All the previous answers cover the important elements of concern. To add, perhaps a good degreasing of the engine, if necessary, would be in order to allow inspection for leaks and other visible issues. I, for one, would also pull the head to see what the cylinder and valves look like. For the price of a head gasket and a wire brush, it could save you a heart-ache. Good luck.
Gasket sets are available from most of the vendors sponsoring and listed on this site. |
#8
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![]() ![]() I don't know where you guys get your ideas. ![]() I've had gas set all winter, no sta-ilb in it. Turned the gas on in the spring and vavoom! it's running. Gas purchased in the cold months wont last as long as summer gas, but more than 30 days. I just turn the gas off and, run the carb dry before I let it set for a while. Unless I`m working on it, it usually runs often. I don't like sta-bil in my gas. I've been running equipment for 50 years I haven't had any problems yet. But you see I don't let my equipment set outside either. ![]() |
#9
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I got news for you....there is a huge difference in fuel especially when and where you buy it and how old it is. Leaving the carbs run dry is a good pratice. The number one problem I see when someone brings a motor to me to fix is old fuel. I fix several small motors by replacing old fuel with fresh fuel and getting the owner to go to a 30 day fuel rule and use a fuel stablizer. Another important thing is how you store your fuel/ I used to think the same thing about fuel stablizers like Sta-Bil and the one Briggs and Straton sells. Them I started to teach a class on small motors and desided to give the fuel stablizer(s) a try. I can tell a huge difference especially in my 2 cycle motors. The key to any fuel stablizer is to use fresh gas and add it before you fill the storage container...not fuel tank on the motor. I haven't found anything on the market that will take old fuel and make it fresh again. I have 13 motors on a 30 day fuel program. 4 of the 13 motors are 2 cycle motors. Some of my motors are lucky to be run once every 2 to 3 weeks. I like when a small motor starts in 1 to 2 pulls of the starter rope or 1 to 2 revloutions of the starter. The power in all my motors is better on fuel with a stablizer in it. I spent over 35 years working on small motors with the last 7 years expermenting with different fuels and fuel additives. I'm trying to find the best bang for the buck. |
#10
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Merk
I spent over 35 years working on small motors with the last 7 years expermenting with different fuels and fuel additives. I'm trying to find the best bang for the buck. Well if you find better I want to know about it. I use Sta-Bil and have had zero problems. ONCE I let the fuel in the carburetor of my roto tiller. The stuff evaporated and left a hard film and some kind of piece of crap stuck to the jet and was covering the hole. Well that's all it took for me. Now I'll preach to the choir about lazy habits in storing any engine. |
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.
MTD Products, Inc. of Cleveland, Ohio purchased the Cub Cadet brand from International Harvester in 1981. Cub Cadet was held as a wholly owned subsidiary for many years following this acquisition, which allowed them to operate independently. Recently, MTD has taken a more aggressive role and integrated Cub Cadet into its other lines of power equipment.
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