122 Clutch Reassembly

[Methos]

Originally Posted by TommyK

NOTE: If you're using an OEM fiber clutch disc with an OEM pressure spring, there's no need for the lockwasher and steel spacer. Just install the OEM teasing spring and the clutch should engage smoothly without slipping.

Why's that? I would think that it's there for a reason so why take it out?

[TommyK]

Duke, I was curious to see what he was talking about, because i had a problem with my new pressure plate sticking. I could leave my teaser spring in, and install the lockwasher in-between the pressure plates, or i could try his suggestion about drilling a small hole in one of the pressure plates, but I don't think i'm going to take the clutch apart to do this. I think the plate needs to wear a little, and then i won't have a problem. This is from Brian Miller's website:

"If a retainer cup or "protective sleeve" is not used, sometimes the teaser spring will become destroyed or distorted from normal use or by the extreme pressure from a very stiff pressure spring. To prevent this from happening and to help the clutch(es) to engage more smoothly, first replace the teasing spring with a piece of heavy wall round steel tubing that measures 7/8" o.d. x 1/2" long x 41/64" i.d. Then install an ordinary zinc-plated 5/8" i.d. split lockwasher between the pressure plates, dead center of the clutch disc(es). The order of installing the clutch parts goes like this: it's pressure plate, lockwasher, pressure plate, spacer, throw-out bearing and then pressure spring. [U]The lockwasher does two things - it acts like a spring, which forces the pressure plates apart, it provides smooth clutch engagement and it'll help to prevent the possibility of the clutch disc from "grabbing" upon take-off. In addition, the spring-like action of the lockwasher will expand the pressure plates when the clutch/brake pedal is fully depressed so they will release from the clutch disc. Doing this will guarantee that the clutch will engage smoothly and release every time. So when reassembling a clutch assembly, don't install the cushion/teaser spring. Instead, install the spacer and lockwasher as described above. You'll be glad you did.

NOTE: If you're using an OEM fiber clutch disc with an OEM pressure spring, there's no need for the lockwasher and steel spacer. Just install the OEM teasing spring and the clutch should engage smoothly without slipping.

NOTE: With the clutch fully engaged, sometimes air will get trapped between the pressure plates, which will at times create a vacuum seal and the clutch won't want to release easily. To prevent this from happening, drill a small hole through one of the pressure plates close to the center so air can be relieved from within the center of the clutch disc. "

Any thoughts on the suggestion to drill a small hole through one of the pressure plates?

[Methos]

Originally Posted by TommyK

Duke, I was curious to see what he was talking about, because i had a problem with my new pressure plate sticking. I could leave my teaser spring in, and install the lockwasher in-between the pressure plates, or i could try his suggestion about drilling a small hole in one of the pressure plates, but I don't think i'm going to take the clutch apart to do this. I think the plate needs to wear a little, and then i won't have a problem. This is from Brian Miller's website:

"If a retainer cup or "protective sleeve" is not used, sometimes the teaser spring will become destroyed or distorted from normal use or by the extreme pressure from a very stiff pressure spring. To prevent this from happening and to help the clutch(es) to engage more smoothly, first replace the teasing spring with a piece of heavy wall round steel tubing that measures 7/8" o.d. x 1/2" long x 41/64" i.d. Then install an ordinary zinc-plated 5/8" i.d. split lockwasher between the pressure plates, dead center of the clutch disc(es). The order of installing the clutch parts goes like this: it's pressure plate, lockwasher, pressure plate, spacer, throw-out bearing and then pressure spring. [U]The lockwasher does two things - it acts like a spring, which forces the pressure plates apart, it provides smooth clutch engagement and it'll help to prevent the possibility of the clutch disc from "grabbing" upon take-off. In addition, the spring-like action of the lockwasher will expand the pressure plates when the clutch/brake pedal is fully depressed so they will release from the clutch disc. Doing this will guarantee that the clutch will engage smoothly and release every time. So when reassembling a clutch assembly, don't install the cushion/teaser spring. Instead, install the spacer and lockwasher as described above. You'll be glad you did.

NOTE: If you're using an OEM fiber clutch disc with an OEM pressure spring, there's no need for the lockwasher and steel spacer. Just install the OEM teasing spring and the clutch should engage smoothly without slipping.

NOTE: With the clutch fully engaged, sometimes air will get trapped between the pressure plates, which will at times create a vacuum seal and the clutch won't want to release easily. To prevent this from happening, drill a small hole through one of the pressure plates close to the center so air can be relieved from within the center of the clutch disc. "

Any thoughts on the suggestion to drill a small hole through one of the pressure plates?

Tommy I haven't been to that site before and for personal reason I will not being going there but that's another topic. I try to learn why people make the change they do. I'm more of a purest and figure if it's worked this long why change it but I enjoy learning and asking the reasons people make the changes that they do.

[TommyK]

Me too Duke. The quality of my cub is impressive. Since i had my clutch apart, I replaced everything except the hanger and coupling and 3 pin driver, to avoid having to make multiple repairs. But I believe i could have just replaced the bushing in the 3 pin driver and probably my release lever, and the original clutch would have lasted another 20 years, on top of being 37 years old. Would it perform as well as a new clutch? Probably not. But it worked fine for me until the bushing fell apart. There really wasn't that much wear to it.

[nycub122]

TommyK: Thanks for the help. Is the washer that goes between the loading spring and throwout bearing the same size as the washer between the loading spring and coil pin at the rear of the drive shaft?

Duke: I'm in agreement with you and am a purist also. If something has worked for 40+ years, why try to reinvent the wheel? If it ain't broke, don't fix it (or, in my case, if it ain't broke, you ain't trying).

To all: Brian Millers' site offers some good suggestions, but keep in mind that his site is geared towards tractors used for PULLING (not something that they were designed to do). As a result, the modifications he suggests are to beef up components that were not designed to take the added stresses that are induced by adding extra horsepower, higher RPMs and increased torque (all the things that PULLERS are trying to achieve). Not something that the everyday Cub owner needs to keep a machine working for 40+ years.

Just my thoughts.
Again, thanks to all for the help.
GEL

[TommyK]

Gel, the washers are the same at either end of the loading spring. So it is the same washer in between the loading spring and the throwout bearing. Part# 736-0156. Same as on my WF. My parts list gives the specs of the washer too, it's 21/32 X 1 X 11GA. Cub Cadet parts lookup for your 122 only lists the part #, so i hope that helps. Sorry for the confusion. My clutch is assembled the same as yours, no pin inbetween the spring and throwout bearing, i just had that extra pin in my head for some reason. I think it's because i dissassembled and reassembled my clutch a couple of times, and each time i started at the transmission end of the shaft, which is the pin, washer, loading spring end. Mark Hellrung, a sponsor at the top of the page, has a good picture of a narrow frame clutch on his website. You can click on it to enlarge it, for reference. I don't know how much you need to replace, but if it's a lot, Mark's clutch is a real good deal. Just my

[nycub122]

TommyK: Thanks so much for the information. I have trued up the pressure plates, installed a new clutch disc, replaced the throwout bearing, teaser spring and anti-rattle springs. The drive shaft looked in good condition, no need to replace now. The pilot bearing in the drive plate looks good, as does the drive plate itself.
I need to get this up and running, the grass needs mowing!!!
Again, thanks to all for the help, this is truely a great forum.
GEL