122 Clutch Reassembly

nycub122 · #1 05-05-2011, 06:30 AM

I have looked at the parts diagram for the clutch assembly and see no mention of a washer/spacer between the clutch loading spring and the clutch throwout bearing. Is the end of the loading spring supposed to make direct contact with the face (large end) of the throwout bearing? Is there supposed to be a washer/spacer between the throwout bearing (small end) and the teaser spring?
Thanks
GEL

TommyK · #2 05-05-2011, 08:58 AM

Hey Gel, I just replaced the clutch in my 108 WF, which is similar to your clutch. From the transmission end, it is assembled with a coiled pin, then a washer, then the loading spring, then another washer, then coiled pin, then throwout bearing, the teaser spring comes next, then another coiled pin. So the throwout bearing makes contact with the coiled pin, and then the teaser spring at the other end. No washer or spacer. Your parts list doesn't show the washers, but it will list them under the loading spring. The Service Manual will have instructions for dissassembly and reassembly, and diagrams. I made the mistake of using my parts list diagram to assemble my clutch, and i put my spacer spring on backwards and had to take it apart again. I recommend using the service manual. Hope that helps.

rpage83 · #3 05-05-2011, 10:18 AM

Im also reasembling my clutch. Going to try the spacer//lock washer combo in lieu of replacing the teaser spring. I keep looking at the photo to double check my work. Man im getting old.

Methos · #4 05-05-2011, 03:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rpage83

Im also reasembling my clutch. Going to try the spacer//lock washer combo in lieu of replacing the teaser spring. I keep looking at the photo to double check my work. Man im getting old.

Any reason why you would do that?

william1041200 · #5 05-05-2011, 09:54 PM

Duke- Thats a brian miller trick. Only place I have heard of it, but I don't know anyone that has tried it, so don't know if it works or why do it.

Methos · #6 05-05-2011, 10:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by william1041200

Duke- Thats a brian miller trick. Only place I have heard of it, but I don't know anyone that has tried it, so don't know if it works or why do it.

It's got my interest in seeing how this is going to work out.

rpage83 · #7 05-05-2011, 11:26 PM

I assembled it today, forgot to take some pics. I like the idea of the lock washer between the two plates. I really seperates the two pressure plates. I will take some photos tommarrow.
Yes, it was Millers idea, thought it would be easier to do this in lieu of the teaser spring. Heres the link to his website. http://************************.com/clutch.htm

Im also looking for a replacement pedal return spring.

nycub122 · #8 05-06-2011, 05:47 AM

Thanks to all for the information. I have the Service Manual and have looked at the disassembly/reassembly procedure. Just to mention, the wide frame clutch assembly is different than the narrow frame assembly in the following:

No spacer is used between the teaser spring and the rear pressure plate on the narrow frame.

TommyK: What size washer is used between the loading spring and throwout bearing? Same as the rear loading spring washer? When speaking with the local Cub dealer, he claims that no washer is used between the loading spring and throwout bearing, yet the Service Manual claims there is, so I'm a little confused.
Also, there is no hole in the drive shaft to put a spring pin between the front loading spring washer and throwout bearing. Not sure, but I believe that the part numbers are different for the narrow frame and wide frame drive shafts.

rpage83: I have used a spring from an old bed spring for a pedal return spring and have had good results. Seens to provide the correct tension to pull the pedal all the back as it should be.

Again, thanks to all for the help
GEL

TommyK · #9 05-06-2011, 08:45 AM

Gel, you're right, you don't use the spacer on a narrow frame clutch. The original clutch i replaced in my wide frame didn't use the spacer either, but my parts list lists it so i used one. Your cub dealer is correct, there is no washer between the throwout bearing and the coiled pin between it and the loading spring. The 2 washers go on either end of the loading spring, between the coiled pins and the loading spring. So it's pin, washer, loading spring, washer, pin, throwout bearing, teaser spring, then coiled pin. Does your drive shaft have 5 holes? Do you have any pictures?

TommyK · #10 05-06-2011, 10:09 AM

Sorry Gel, my bad. I'm looking at your service manual, section 2-14, Reassembly, and I don't think there is a coiled pin between the washer and throwout bearing. It looks like it goes coiled pin, washer, loading spring, washer, throwout bearing, teaser spring, coiled pin. Can't see anything in the pics because of the release lever. If you don't have a hole in the driveshaft for it, then there must not be a coiled pin between the throwout bearing and washer.
I was curious and had to look up brian miller's spacer/lock washer combo. It's something he recommends for pulling tractors. He includes this note in the section: NOTE: If you're using an OEM fiber clutch disc with an OEM pressure spring, there's no need for the lockwasher and steel spacer. Just install the OEM teasing spring and the clutch should engage smoothly without slipping.