carb rebuild - Page 3

Methos · #21 05-04-2011, 08:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wayne

Nevertheless, I think I'll try at least the first one with eyes open.

That's a good plan but the second one we want a video of you doing blind folded.

_DX3_ · #22 05-04-2011, 08:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Methos

That's a good plan but the second one we want a video of you doing blind folded.

Ha! Would me doing it without my glasses qualify? LOL

darkminion_17 · #23 05-04-2011, 10:42 PM

I do it with my feet.while sleeping,with my eyes open and driving.
I bought a carb kit a long time ago and it came with a gauge to adjust the bowl height,haven't seen one of those anymore.

Wayne · #24 05-04-2011, 10:55 PM

Does anyone have Matt's carb rebuild pdf mirrored somewhere? if not they should....I've tried to download it 10 times and I encounter server errors every time. Doesnt help being on dialup but this problem is on the server not my end.

_DX3_ · #25 05-04-2011, 11:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wayne

Does anyone have Matt's carb rebuild pdf mirrored somewhere? if not they should....I've tried to download it 10 times and I encounter server errors every time. Doesnt help being on dialup but this problem is on the server not my end.

I sent you a private message.

Wayne · #26 05-05-2011, 08:27 PM

I've got the carb soaking, except for the float needle since it has rubber on it. I noticed the float needle is square in x-section, while the one in the kit is triangular. Not sure if it matters, as the kit came with the brass thingie (ahh, is there a better word than thingie?) that it mates into so they are presumably a match, and presumably if I replace both together they everything will be fine. But I hate presuming or assuming anything about things which I know nothing.

And uh..just noticed now after pulling everything out that there is some liquid in the float. The engine ran just fine and I'm guessing it was in there all along.I know I should replace it, but I'm quite broke. Can I get by with it this way for a month or two?

_DX3_ · #27 05-05-2011, 09:08 PM

Your presumption is correct. The brass seat is a bit of a pain to get out, but it can be done. Seems like I remember someone in here describing how they were able to get theirs out fairly easy. Hopefully someone will chime in.

Wayne · #28 05-05-2011, 09:33 PM

No, there was nothing that was hard to get out. The part I'm referring to is (I think) the float needle. It has a rubber tip on it. Its the thing in the middle right of the first picture in that pdf you kindly sent me. It fits into that brass thing right above it in the picture. Both came out fine. I was just curious why the new one has a different x-section shape.

CC1450 · #29 05-05-2011, 09:37 PM

if your float is taking on fuel, it is no good. Kind of defeats the purpose of the part.

You may be able to figure out where it leaks and patch it with some solder for a quick fix.

Methos · #30 05-05-2011, 10:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by _DX3_

Your presumption is correct. The brass seat is a bit of a pain to get out, but it can be done. Seems like I remember someone in here describing how they were able to get theirs out fairly easy. Hopefully someone will chime in.

I use my craftsman nut driver to get mine out. Some have used a grinder to thin the walls of a socket but that seems rash to me.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wayne

No, there was nothing that was hard to get out. The part I'm referring to is (I think) the float needle. It has a rubber tip on it. Its the thing in the middle right of the first picture in that pdf you kindly sent me. It fits into that brass thing right above it in the picture. Both came out fine. I was just curious why the new one has a different x-section shape.

No worries on the two styles both will work fine. And there is no need to keep it a new one comes in the rebuld kit.