Inside the K181 - take a look - Page 2

Roanoker494 · #11 01-18-2011, 08:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by william1041200

looks as if the screen comes off last on a k -181. in your pics there are no screws holding the screen to the flywheel.

Thank you for that info. Once I got the bushing out I removed the large nut then the aluminum hub and screen came out together, no screws holding the screen itself.

Roanoker494 · #12 01-18-2011, 08:24 PM

And the story comes together. Looks like one of the many pieces of metal got caught between the cam lobe and tappet.

_DX3_ · #13 01-18-2011, 09:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Roanoker494

Thank you for that info. Once I got the bushing out I removed the large nut then the aluminum hub and screen came out together, no screws holding the screen itself.

I suggest putting the large nut back on when you start to remove the flywheel. That thing can fly off and land right on your toes, ask me I know

. It will pop pretty loud when it breaks free.

Roanoker494 · #14 01-18-2011, 09:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by _DX3_

I suggest putting the large nut back on when you start to remove the flywheel. That thing can fly off and land right on your toes, ask me I know

. It will pop pretty loud when it breaks free.

Actually it didn't pop at all. I bolted on the puller, tightened the draw bolt down about a quarter turn past hand tight and tapped the flywheel once. That is what you get when the engine was stored in a temperature controlled garage for the last 35 years, no "rust welding" going on here.

william1041200 · #15 01-18-2011, 10:15 PM

thats sound advise. I luckily never had one launch.

Your engine has a story written in about 1-2 seconds...

william1041200 · #16 01-18-2011, 10:21 PM

you need to replace that entire governor shaft . There should be a 'flag' welded onto the end of the shaft that runs through the case to the throttle control governor linkage. The 'flag' is what the governor gear's weights push against that resist high rpms without load.

Rhoderman · #17 01-18-2011, 10:25 PM

Incredible pictures! You're lucky in that when she broke, she quit running pretty much right there. No scoring of the cylinder wall. Lucky.

I got the one that didn't let loose, and somebody ran the snot of my engine. I was able to rebuild it without too much trouble though. About the only difference is you have to find a camshaft for yours.

Check those big ball bearings for the crankshaft - if they ingested some bits-n-pieces during the post "ah, crap" spin down, they might need replaced as well.

Yosemite Sam · #18 01-18-2011, 11:03 PM

That is exactly why we NEVER re-use a plastic governor. Also check the teeth on the crank shaft, you don't want any chips or other damage there either.

Roanoker494 · #19 01-19-2011, 02:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by william1041200

you need to replace that entire governor shaft . There should be a 'flag' welded onto the end of the shaft that runs through the case to the throttle control governor linkage. The 'flag' is what the governor gear's weights push against that resist high rpms without load.

I found the "flag" in the oil pan and I half suspect it is what caused the broken cam, or it may have been a pin out of the governor gear.

Roanoker494 · #20 01-19-2011, 02:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rhoderman

Check those big ball bearings for the crankshaft - if they ingested some bits-n-pieces during the post "ah, crap" spin down, they might need replaced as well.

I have found new bearings for $15 each, so I am going to replace them either way. The bearing on the output side seemed a little "sticky" feeling, I don't want to risk another tear down.