My 129 powered down suddenly while mowing and can't get it restarted

[three4rd]

Originally Posted by athomas

here is info from our tech section on testing the Kohler coil :

https://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=11

If you buy a coil ,make sure you get one that has the internal resistor .

Thanks for all that. First I want to get the set screw I need to retighten the pulley against the shaft. I contacted a local Cub parts and repair guy that I've bought from many times over the years to see if he has the right one.

[finsruskw]

Any hardware store worth their salt will have a selection of set screws to choose from.

[three4rd]

Originally Posted by finsruskw

Any hardware store worth their salt will have a selection of set screws to choose from.

Having not heard back from the Cub repair guy, I considered trying our True Value store next. We have a really good one here so worth a shot.

[finsruskw]

The long onesn are "cone point" and the short ones are for locking the cones in place
3 of each req'd.

[three4rd]

Originally Posted by finsruskw

The long onesn are "cone point" and the short ones are for locking the cones in place
3 of each req'd.

I know, but what you're referring to are the 6 set screws that go in the PTO assembly. Those can be found all over, but I need the larger (single) set screw that goes into the drive pulley. One goes against the key and the other right against the shaft. I heard back from my Cub guy and he doesn't think he has any.

[finsruskw]

Hardware store should have those as well

5/16 x 18 x3/8" long
2 req'd

[three4rd]

Originally Posted by finsruskw

Hardware store should have those as well

5/16 x 18 x3/8" long
2 req'd

Thanks. I found a Cub parts dealer that had them - and so ordered all 8 - the 6 for the PTO and two for the pulley. Once all that's done, I'm still stuck with whatever caused it to stop so suddenly the other week and now won't restart.

[PBIjim]

If you spray either (starting fluid) into the carb intake and she runs for a few seconds, it's likely a fuel delivery problem.

Next, see what the spark plug looks like. That can tell you a lot.

If it runs for a bit, then quits when it gets hot, then starts again when it cools off, the coil is a good place to take a closer look, assuming that the either test doesn't bring her back to life immediately.

If you don't have any spark, try running a small file over the points. Auto parts stores carry very small files for exactly this reason, or at least they did in the past. Also known as Swiss pattern files or riffler files.

Check your wiring with a test light. Don't be surprised if a safety switch is cutting out on you. Don't be surprised if you have a bad wire.

If there's no spark and you have power at the coil and cleaning the points doesn't help, then try a new condenser. If that doesn't work, try another new condenser. If that doesn't work, then try a known good condenser off of a running motor. I've seen several of those that were bad right out of the box when new. They do die while in use sometimes.

Do a farmer's compression test. Pull out the spark plug, put your thumb over the hole & crank the motor. If air doesn't squirt out from under your thumb, you have a compression issue.

Just for fun, check to make sure that you have oil in the motor.

If you are still not running, maybe check the ignition timing? For the roughest of rough checks, take a look at the piston position when the points open.

[PBIjim]

Originally Posted by three4rd

In looking back at my earlier thread dealing with this same issue, I'm curious about the one reply: "In my limited experience, fuel delivery problems are usually not a instant dead stop problem but one where the engine starts to starve,then changes pitch, runs hot, sputters, then dies". This makes me wonder about whether it is a fuel issue or something else that would have caused it to shut off immediately with no indication of starting to gradually have difficulty. Running completely normally the one minute, and then suddenly shut off.

I used to run a Ford NAA that had a fuel petcock that would vibrate shut. I once had a leaf fall into the tank of a Farmall H and block off the fuel flow. Water in the gas from condensation can suddenly get deep enough in the float bowl to starve the engine of fuel. All sorts of fuel problems can happen.

First isolate if the issue is fuel, spark, compression, blocked intake, blocked exhaust, or timing, then dig deeper.