782 Engine

[CoRd59]

Originally Posted by Farmall450

Nice front hydraulics

Is it broken or did the PO cut it off really poorly?

I think it's broken, unless the PO cut it off with a dull hacksaw blade and cold chisel? It's rather jagged looking in person.

I'm little ashamed to say this out loud. I did not see the PTO was missing, and the shaft was broken, when it was at the estate sale.

I still would of bought the 782 anyways, for the price they were asking. I hardly looked it over at the estate sale, I saw the price tag of $250, and it had a running M18 in it, that didn't knock or smoke. I had to make a fast decision, and get the money out of my pocket, before someone else did.

Once I got it home and unloaded, I looked it over a bit better. I was a little bummed out, but not bad. I've seen non-running locked up 782s around me bring $350-500 at estate sales.

The dual spool valve in it has remnants of yellow paint on it, so it must be from a different tractor?

[Farmall450]

Originally Posted by CoRd59

I think it's broken, unless the PO cut it off with a dull hacksaw blade and cold chisel? It's rather jagged looking in person.

I'm little ashamed to say this out loud. I did not see the PTO was missing, and the shaft was broken, when it was at the estate sale.

I still would of bought the 782 anyways, for the price they were asking. I hardly looked it over at the estate sale, I saw the price tag of $250, and it had a running M18 in it, that didn't knock or smoke. I had to make a fast decision, and get the money out of my pocket, before someone else did.

Once I got it home and unloaded, I looked it over a bit better. I was a little bummed out, but not bad. I've seen non-running locked up 782s around me bring $350-500 at estate sales.

The dual spool valve in it has remnants of yellow paint on it, so it must be from a different tractor?

I think the spool valves were always an orangish yellow, regardless of tractor color. That valve alone is worth what you paid, so I wouldn't be worried. I would also never check the front PTO unless it had an attachment on. I would probably turn it on with the switch and see what happened, which might have lead me to it being missing.

[darkminion_17]

I would think being it has an oil filter the Cub crank would not work. It prolly has different oil passages, check me on that Ol George on this one. This is on ebay, good to compare with a cub one.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/20523034475...Bk9SR-Sq0KaQZw

[CoRd59]

Originally Posted by darkminion_17

I would think being it has an oil filter the Cub crank would not work. It prolly has different oil passages, check me on that Ol George on this one. This is on ebay, good to compare with a cub one.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/20523034475...Bk9SR-Sq0KaQZw

I thought the M18 in Cubs had a oil filter also? I'll wait and hear what Ol George thoughts are also.

Here's crank on eBay from a Cub M18.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/136925963915

[ol'George]

Originally Posted by CoRd59

I thought the M18 in Cubs had a oil filter also? I'll wait and hear what Ol George thoughts are also.

Here's crank on eBay from a Cub M18.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/136925963915

Most horizontal M-18 equipped cubs had the oil filter adaptor on the block for divorced /remote filters using oil lines.

So If a person wanted to use a filter on the block,all one had to do was use the applicable adaptor.(and trim the cooling tins for block mounting)
You already have the block mounted filter.
currently I have 3 engines with block mounted filters and one with a remote filter.
That crank on epay looks usable,and from the picture I don't see any problem with the blemish on one rod journal.
That said, without putting a mike on the rod journals, one can't see the size or any taper.
But usually either they are quite obviously damaged, or usable.

I think your closure plate will work as it apperars to have the PTO clutch mounting holes,and the internal oil passages are in the block and are all the same.
Some of the replacement supplied engines had different length crank to fit say a irragation pump or a tapered crank to fit a generator application, just to name a few,
I've seem one on a bandsaw in a saw mill utilizing 4 drive belts.
I'd say you just need to change your crank to enable you to mount a PTO clutch on your engine.
And if you did have to change the closure plate, its just a bolt on cover.

I'll not get into making a Vertical engine long crankshaft fit into a horizontal engine but it can be done, but it needs shortened and some lathe work, and a keyway milled, but its an acceptable job for us that like to tinker
I'm guessing your red replacement engine possibly came with a longer crankshaft for say a pulley or irragation application, and somewhere along the line it got broken and was transplanted into your tractor just using for motive power, not PTO use. but its just a guess.
Or theory #2:
"Bubba"
bottomed out the PTO retaining bolt in the center of the crankshaft with an impact wrench and snapped the end of the crankshaft off.

[darkminion_17]

Thanks ol george for correcting me.
Crankshaft manual on page 56 shows the length...
https://www.smallenginesuppliers.com...-reference.pdf

[CoRd59]

Originally Posted by ol'George

Most horizontal M-18 equipped cubs had the oil filter adaptor on the block for divorced /remote filters using oil lines.

So If a person wanted to use a filter on the block,all one had to do was use the applicable adaptor.(and trim the cooling tins for block mounting)
You already have the block mounted filter.
currently I have 3 engines with block mounted filters and one with a remote filter.
That crank on epay looks usable,and from the picture I don't see any problem with the blemish on one rod journal.
That said, without putting a mike on the rod journals, one can't see the size or any taper.
But usually either they are quite obviously damaged, or usable.

I think your closure plate will work as it apperars to have the PTO clutch mounting holes,and the internal oil passages are in the block and are all the same.
Some of the replacement supplied engines had different length crank to fit say a irragation pump or a tapered crank to fit a generator application, just to name a few,
I've seem one on a bandsaw in a saw mill utilizing 4 drive belts.
I'd say you just need to change your crank to enable you to mount a PTO clutch on your engine.
And if you did have to change the closure plate, its just a bolt on cover.

I'll not get into making a Vertical engine long crankshaft fit into a horizontal engine but it can be done, but it needs shortened and some lathe work, and a keyway milled, but its an acceptable job for us that like to tinker
I'm guessing your red replacement engine possibly came with a longer crankshaft for say a pulley or irragation application, and somewhere along the line it got broken and was transplanted into your tractor just using for motive power, not PTO use. but its just a guess.
Or theory #2:
"Bubba"
bottomed out the PTO retaining bolt in the center of the crankshaft with an impact wrench and snapped the end of the crankshaft off.

Thank you for sharing all that, I really appreciate it. It will come in handy.

I think you might be onto something with the Bubba theory. There is a what appears to be a broken / twisted off bolt in the shaft.

[CoRd59]

Originally Posted by darkminion_17

Thanks ol george for correcting me.
Crankshaft manual on page 56 shows the length...
https://www.smallenginesuppliers.com...-reference.pdf

Thanks for posting that manual. It will be very helpful to use for reference.