Starter generator problems

[Graflex45]

Notice the crazed paint starting to peel, that was from overheating. Was not like that before I replaced the bearings and resurfaced the commutator

[green407]

Originally Posted by Graflex45

Notice the crazed paint starting to peel, that was from overheating. Was not like that before I replaced the bearings and resurfaced the commutator

Either you did a super excellent job cleaning this, or it doesn't look like it's been getting too hot. The way you were explaining things I was expecting to see the windings on the armature to be burnt/black, or at least some discolouration.

From what I read on the tag PN1101996, it is the proper generator for the Cub.

Do you have a nice photo of the brush end of the generator case?
Somebody might see something that you don't.

[Graflex45]

I used this as my weekly or semi-weekly mower for over a year so I got familiar with how warm things are supposed to run on it. The generator got warm in normal operation, but I could hold my hand on it forever if I needed too and the bearing end didn't get hot at all. After the rebuild, can't hold my hard on it for more than 2 seconds and the commutator end bearing was getting noticably more hot that the other part of the end plate. I shut things down when that started to happen because I was monitoring the generator since I had done all this work on it.
I had already taken apart most of the commutator end since I'm trying to pull out the pole pieces.
I had taken pics before I touched anything but this website doesn't like my phone for some reason now and only will let me take a picture to post, not upload from my saved pics.

[green407]

Sorry, I'm not seeing anything obvious at the moment

When you rebuilt the generator did you happen to read through this first?

https://www.onlycubcadets.net/pdf/S_G.pdf

I'm thinking your armature is still good, I don't see any discolouration of the windings, doesn't look like your missing any solder from the commutator risers, and the growler hasn't revealed any shorts.

[Graflex45]

Originally Posted by green407

Sorry, I'm not seeing anything obvious at the moment

When you rebuilt the generator did you happen to read through this first?

https://www.onlycubcadets.net/pdf/S_G.pdf

I'm thinking your armature is still good, I don't see any discolouration of the windings, doesn't look like your missing any solder from the commutator risers, and the growler hasn't revealed any shorts.

You don't think the armature has been turned down to far though?
It looks like it was already turned down at least twice since you can see the solder joints and armature wires soldered into the copper?

[ol'George]

If you put the Case in a drill press vice, and put a large screwdriver bit in the chuck , most times you can hold the screwdriver bit in the screw and it cant back out while you loosen/turn the screws removing them.

[Graflex45]

I had already drilled pilot holes and I opened them up enough to fit an e z out into them and was able to back them out. I have a pack of new screws in the mail since I knew they would get torn up. Definitely putting a bit of antisieze on them if I have to disassemble it again.
I pulled the coils out and the heavy A terminal coil looked fined after stripping off the old wrapping, the paper insulator was good and didn't look like any place for the coils to touch together, so I wrapped it in fiberglass tape.
The field coil I can't be sure if there was any wire touching the case. There where two spots under the coil that looks suspicious like a possible place it arced. I pulled of and carefully separated the gummy plastic dip and gave it the same fiberglass wrap, and then carefully filed down any sharp edge or spot on the poles.

[green407]

Here's hopping those two suspicious spots were the problem.

There's only two ways for the generator to get hot, either friction like the armature rubbing on a pole shoe or bad bearings, or electrical overload like a grounded field winding.

I forgot to ask earlier, while the generator was still on the tractor did you happen to put a volt meter on the armature side and see if/what it was outputting?

[Graflex45]

Got back from a vacation and was able to look at the "good" generator and parts generator I got in the mail from my parts guy.
The good one was a yellow painted (off a cub) 1101996 that looks pretty much identical to the one that came off my machine, I'm going to clean the gunk out a little bit more and put new new bearings on it and see if that will work. It did spin fine when I hooked it to a battery.
The parts one i found the number is 1101970 after I cleaned it all off. That is a cw rotating one so its not a cub generator. But are the stator coils the same as the ccw versions so I can pull all the parts out and recondition them? the armature also has half the number of contacts on the commutator so is it wound different that I cant use it in a ccw starter generator? I need to know if i have to send this back if its not useful for parts.

[Graflex45]

Originally Posted by green407

Here's hopping those two suspicious spots were the problem.

There's only two ways for the generator to get hot, either friction like the armature rubbing on a pole shoe or bad bearings, or electrical overload like a grounded field winding.

I forgot to ask earlier, while the generator was still on the tractor did you happen to put a volt meter on the armature side and see if/what it was outputting?

I didn't think to check the voltage off the generator when i had it running unconnected.
I have a large variable resistor that I can hook up like the testing documents show as a "dumb" load and put an ammeter on that and a voltmeter to see if its behaving right if i ground the field coil.