122 driveshaft

jbrewer · #1 09-20-2023, 06:10 PM

You do indeed!

So far, no inadvertent wheelies.... :-)

jbrewer · #2 09-21-2023, 09:09 PM

I should have known nothing on this tractor would go easy. I'm not sure if the flat head stove bolt was an International idea, but as soon as I saw there was no standard bolt head, I knew this would be trouble.

It was.

It was , since the square shank had rusted away. Out comes Dr John and my surgical angle grinder.

More careful surgery:

...and I can pop the bolt out.

1 hour later........................

Back to it....waiting on parts.

finsruskw · #3 09-21-2023, 09:25 PM

There is a reason that type of bolt, slotted carriage, is used there bud.
You will find out once you drive/steer it across a bunch of uneven ground if you don't put one like it back in there.
.
.Hint.....it has to do with the drag link.

jbrewer · #4 09-22-2023, 09:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by finsruskw

There is a reason that type of bolt, slotted carriage, is used there bud.
You will find out once you drive/steer it across a bunch of uneven ground if you don't put one like it back in there.
.
.Hint.....it has to do with the drag link.

So it's an "oops" bolt chosen by engineering! I wonder if IH manufactured that bolt or sourced it externally (with that slotted head, there's no opportunity to mark it with the normal IH nomenclature. ) Gotta wonder if they had that specially made. Not going to find that bolt in the bins at ACE. :-) I'll jack up the front and see what the interference looks like with the axle in various configurations. At least the carriage bolt rusted its flats off before the frame did.

There's another "oops" bit of engineering on the other side of the frame where the nut is welded as it's impossible to get to the nut with the engine in place.

Having worked in design engineering my whole career (electronic, not mechanical, but the rules/conventions are the same) I can hear the discussions between engineering and purchasing at the time ... (you want me to source WHAT kind of bolt??? Are you kidding me?)

Got the cracks in the frame welded up and ground flat. Those two rear bolt holes seem to often crack from the accumulated 50 yrs of torque and vibration. I built some oversize "washers" out of 3/16" steel strap to fit under the frame to spread the load over a 2" area of the frame rather than the existing half inch area that the bolt head provided. I got some replacement bolts that are 3/16" in longer to compensate.

Next up: Clutch rebuild. Pull engine from 123 and install in 122. Install other engine back in 123.

jcubtroy · #5 09-22-2023, 09:47 AM

watch for stress cracks around engine mount holes in frame. pound for pound the 122 is top self in my opinion. I only have three.

jbrewer · #6 09-23-2023, 02:05 PM

Waiting for parts and for Ophelia to move northward. I got the headlight pane out without snapping any of the studs, which took some time. As always, there's significant rust here too. PTO button has been used up.

Kroil and patience got the light panel nuts off . Some were no longer hex shaped :-)

Dart1917 · #7 09-23-2023, 02:16 PM

One source for the truss head screws https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/40923617

jbrewer · #8 09-25-2023, 06:37 PM

Next up: Clutch.

Turns out if you have a Black and Decker Workmate , some all thread and an eyebolt, you have a clutch disassembly tool:

This worked really well, and I was able to remove the top pins quickly and without drama, remove the spring tension by loosening up the eyebolt/all thread. The existing holes in the workmate worked perfectly for this. I put a small notch in the workmate joining surface with a saw similar to the one that's about 2" to the left of the driveshaft. It was really nice and stable even through the pounding it took to remove the Spirol pins.

It was a fun diversion, now back to cleaning parts before assembly.

PS: Whatever paint was used on the clutch fork is fantastic. It's the only non-rusty part on the whole tractor.

jbrewer · #9 09-29-2023, 05:09 PM

Waiting on a pilot bushing and some large Spirol pins for the driving plate.

After 60 yrs in this tractor, those Spirols didn't come out without a struggle.

jbrewer · #10 09-30-2023, 06:20 PM

Nice day to work on cubs!

Pressed out old pilot bushing and pressed in new.
Took tank off replacement engine and removed head bolts to get tin off, Mud daubers had wadded up half of the head fins and grass was wadded in a couple others.
Noticed piston has 010 stamped in it. Someone's been in here and done a cleanup bore and new piston
replaced missing side tin
installed new head gasket and torqued head

And of course....cleaned parts.............................