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#1
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We understand that, but you do have to take some initiative and use common sense/logic in learning, do not sell yourself short!
obviously you just lack self confidence. look at the wiring diagram it is just as simple as water flowing through a hose or many hoses. The power comes from the ignition switch then through safety switches, eventually to the solenoid switch,---- somewhere it has lost its continuity. if you follow it and say it goes to a clutch switch, it should show up as 12V into the switch and with the clutch pushed down it should also show 12V coming out of the switch. if not, it is obviously a problem switch. If power does flow through the switch it is ok and you need to go to the next path it travels on, where you no longer see 12V, that is the "broken" link in the circuit! It is really simple and you are just working on the starting circuit, not all of the wires/circuits. We will help you but you have to do your part, as we physically cannot. ![]() |
#2
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Anywho I've got continuity back to the main harness but don't even know where the switches are...are they the little black boxes that dead end out of the harness and subharness in a couple spots and if not, what are those? Will wait till tomorrow to work my way further up. Fortunately I got the trailer moved by other means
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Cub Cadet 2166 |
#3
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So I'm stumped here. The subharness goes into the main harness in the plastic protector, then goes up to the dash where there is a Y. One arm of the Y goes to ignition, the other to the PTO knob. The wire I'm tracing from the small solenoid terminal is orange where it enters the main harness, but there are 3 orange wires (combined) in the 2 arms of the Y. None are giving me continuity to the single orange wire at the point just before it enters the main harness.
This suggests 2 things to me: 1) there is a break somewhere in the main harness and I need to tear it apart to find it 2) #1 is completely wrong, there is something I don't understand about the wiring that is causing this result, and I'll need help to get past this speed bump. I'll bet dollars to donuts its #2. PS-I probably should say resistance not continuity because that's what I am actually measuring so far. I have low resistance from the main harness to the solenoid
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Cub Cadet 2166 |
#4
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Have you verified that the safety switches are all functioning correctly.
Brake, PTO, and seat switches. I have never seen the exact machine you are working on but all the tractors I have worked on the wire colors to the safeties are orange. I looked at the service manual for your machine and there is a ton of info on the electrical. Worth a read for sure. http://service.mtdproducts.com/Train...000_series.pdf Ken |
#5
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Well the actual wire to the small solenoid terminal is blue, FWIW, but once you follow it back to the first connector it connects to orange. Which makes sense, perhaps, if the authority to send juice has to come from one of the stupid safety switches that only makes this harder for an electrical incompetent like me. Meanwhile, I have no trouble keeping my hands and feet away from a moving blade on a machine that lacks them. ![]()
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Cub Cadet 2166 |
#6
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The seat switch is disconnected. I don't know where the others are or how to test them.
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Cub Cadet 2166 |
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.
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