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#1
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As long as I have my K241 engine apart to install a new cam shaft/gear/ACR, I thought it would be a good time to hone the cylinder - I've never done one before and was wondering which kind of hone to use. I understand that I'll need a 3-1/4" or 83 mm diameter hone.
Here's the ones I'm looking at: https://www.amazon.com/Research-FLEX...525600143&th=1 https://www.ebay.com/itm/16301894497...sAAOSwPaJgdphq Any preferences or advice?
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![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() 1951 Farmall H; 1957 Willys CJ5; 1959 Farmall Cub; 1961 Cub Cadet Original; 1963 & 1964 Cub Cadet 100's; 1971 Cub Cadet 106 |
#2
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I recommend the bottle brush hone. It doesn't do as nice a job as the 3 stone hone, but it is easier to use and if you do brake a stone the hone is still usable.
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#3
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![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() 1951 Farmall H; 1957 Willys CJ5; 1959 Farmall Cub; 1961 Cub Cadet Original; 1963 & 1964 Cub Cadet 100's; 1971 Cub Cadet 106 |
#4
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The reason for DEGLAZING a cylinder is to allow new rings to seat properly.
You do not want to DEGLAZE and re ring a cylinder if it is tapered, out of round or egg shaped beyond tolerance. A quality/experienced machine shop will have the precision tools to determine that. ( Dial bore gauge) An experienced person can measure using a Telescoping gauge & micrometer. Most times a rebore and oversize piston and rings is needed. Yes, a half assed repair is slapping in new rings and hoping for the best. Do as you see fit, just trying to give the correct procedure. Also the Crankshaft crank pin needs to be measured for out of round/taper using a micrometer, not a caliper. ![]() |
#5
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I will. Thanks for such an informed response.
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![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() 1951 Farmall H; 1957 Willys CJ5; 1959 Farmall Cub; 1961 Cub Cadet Original; 1963 & 1964 Cub Cadet 100's; 1971 Cub Cadet 106 |
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