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#11
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Not trying to hi-jack your thread.
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![]() ![]() ![]() '76 1200 Dad bought '75 1200 "Twinsie" per my daughter |
#12
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Yes, you may as well remove the engine as it will not just slide forward in the frame without picking it up as the pan will not clear the front X member unless you do pick it up.
And remove one or both of the rear coupler spirol pins to disconnect it from the transmission input shaft so you can remove the entire assembly. Do you have a set of pin punches? You will need at least a 1/4" punch as the driveshaft pins are that size. If you like clutching and shifting a lot you will be OK with a gear drive. Too much screwing around for me what with having to mow around a lot of crap. What size deck do you have? |
#13
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In my opinion, its easier to remove the mounting bolts on the engine and move the engine up and forward than it is to try and drive the spirol pins out the other end, and then try and knock the whole driveshaft out without breaking anything. Take an old fart's word for it. Your thumbs will thank you. Most of what you want to look at is easier to find and see with the engine out and the deck off. To "hot wire" a 301 twelve horse run a jump wire from the positive battery cable to the positive side of the coil and a heavier jump wire (I use standard jumper cables) from the positive side of the battery again to the post closest to the outside of the starter/generator. I also like to hook the other jumper cable to a good strong ground on the tractor, just to be sure everything has a good ground.
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#14
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I do appreciate all the help. I AM learning a little in the last day. I pulled the deck and the bottom cover off and had a look. The teaser spring is broken...sometimes it binds on the shaft and keeps th clutch engaged, and then other times it doesn't. Thats why it was driving me crazy. Starter motor is cranking again....the tab tat contacts the switch was a little mis-aligned. Same thing (driving me crazy) because sometimes it would work and then it wouldnt. I could get away with just a new teaser spring, but might as well do a clutch if Ive got to split apart the drive train. Would like to find a complete clutch assembly. And then, of course, figure out most "efficient" method of repair. I'm thinking sliding the engine forward is preferred (even though I will have to pick it up slightly to clear crossmember) as I am working alone...
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