Carb bowl and tank bowl

[ICOM 756]

Originally Posted by finsruskw

Best to find out just WTH carb you DO have
A picture would help
If its a chinese knock off you will likely find the float valve seat to be an off thread as well.
I'm done with this one.

what your sayin the valve seat isnt threaded in all the way ??

ill check it. it seem to run fine no flooding. no leaking.
but this is my 1st full summer of use. last summer was just gettin them up and running. no real use.

so all the lil bugs are showing up .. lil pieces of this and that breakin loose in tank .. so took the tank off drain and the tank bowl so on. the normal start one end finish on other end lol ..

[ICOM 756]

Originally Posted by darkminion_17

Walbro carbs only have one gasket.

if you know or someone ??

even the warls had that half gasket ? if you wanna call it that.
i took 2 or 3 apart for cleaning when got the tractors.
one had the half gasket one had just the ring gasket on the bowl...

so iam guessing the ring gasket should work on all of them ??

[ironman]

I recall working on one where I didn't remove the carb from the engine, just removed the bowl to check for crud in the bowl. The "flimsey" gasket was so deteriorated in was not re-useable.
I had none at the time so put the bowl back on with only the "O" ring. No leak and it ran fine.

[darkminion_17]

Originally Posted by ICOM 756

if you know or someone ??

even the warls had that half gasket ? if you wanna call it that.
i took 2 or 3 apart for cleaning when got the tractors.
one had the half gasket one had just the ring gasket on the bowl...

so i am guessing the ring gasket should work on all of them ??

Picture would help, the Waldos gasket will not work on the Carter and visa versa.

Kohler used to sell the kit with only the bowl and baffle gasket.

[ICOM 756]

Originally Posted by ironman

I recall working on one where I didn't remove the carb from the engine, just removed the bowl to check for crud in the bowl. The "flimsey" gasket was so deteriorated in was not re-useable.
I had none at the time so put the bowl back on with only the "O" ring. No leak and it ran fine.

thats just what i did with the aftermarket . it has the half gasket.. thin like hair thin.
its down to a slowwwww drip so no issue when running..

Originally Posted by darkminion_17

Picture would help, the Waldos gasket will not work on the Carter and visa versa.

Kohler used to sell the kit with only the bowl and baffle gasket.

what would you like to see ? the whole carb or the groove the gasket goes into. that wont probley happen till i get some gaskets... thats in 2 weeks.

i just picked up a 68 gravely com 430. k301. 50in ...and that took my green stamps for the month.. lol

[ol'George]

I'll throw this out there:
Been a time or two I've run into a situation where the bowl gasket is in good shape, just compressed, and not sealing because it was disturbed.
so I stretch the bowl height a tad---
How? by setting it on large socket, near the size of the bowl, and putting a smaller socket inside, and a light tap with a hammer, effectively lengthening the bowl a few thousands.
it don't take much, nine times out of ten, it reseals just fine.
Now as far as clone carburetors:
I've experienced that walley-booger and carter use SAE threads and SOME clones, use metric.
So they do not interchange/play nice together.

[ICOM 756]

Originally Posted by ol'George

I'll throw this out there:
Been a time or two I've run into a situation where the bowl gasket is in good shape, just compressed, and not sealing because it was disturbed.
so I stretch the bowl height a tad---
How? by setting it on large socket, near the size of the bowl, and putting a smaller socket inside, and a light tap with a hammer, effectively lengthening the bowl a few thousands.
it don't take much, nine times out of ten, it reseals just fine.
Now as far as clone carburetors:
I've experienced that walley-booger and carter use SAE threads and SOME clones, use metric.
So they do not interchange/play nice together.

yep knock the bottom out a lil so the bowl bolt has lil more to push up the bowl..
didnt even think of that.. ok folks we need to find a way to hook ol geo up to a hard drive to save all the info in his noggin

i can say this. old choke shafts are not nice lol.. i went slow and tight loose tight loose and the choke plate lil screws still snaped grrrr....
why u ask was i messing with it... was goin to swap shafts to the aftermarket as the aftermarket is backwards grrrr lol
the choke arm is toward motor. stock or factory is towards air cleaner.
so ill cut off the ear and give a tac weld.

[finsruskw]

Corrosion/dings on the top edge of the bowl is sometimes an issue as well.
A few swipes on a piece of sandpaper is usually the cure for that one.
New bowls for the carters are readily available from Charlie.
You may want to add one to your next wish/parts list along with a kit or two.

[ol'George]

Originally Posted by ICOM 756

yep knock the bottom out a lil so the bowl bolt has lil more to push up the bowl..
didnt even think of that.. ok folks we need to find a way to hook ol geo up to a hard drive to save all the info in his noggin

i can say this. old choke shafts are not nice lol.. i went slow and tight loose tight loose and the choke plate lil screws still snaped grrrr....
why u ask was i messing with it... was goin to swap shafts to the aftermarket as the aftermarket is backwards grrrr lol
the choke arm is toward motor. stock or factory is towards air cleaner.
so ill cut off the ear and give a tac weld.

Choke/throttle shafts:
Make sure you file/grind the end of the screws to remove the bradding/upsetting/peening of the threads FIRST
Ok, so now I tell you
I prefer to silver solder a small metal piece to the shaft push/pull rather than tack weld. either works if yer good at welding thin material.
Also if the choke cable can be rerouted(long enough) so it can come from a 180* direction to pull the choke,--- that works well and no messing with the shaft if it can be done, as some situations don't allow rerouting as things are in the way or ascetics (looks like shit)
I find it better to make a new tab and weld it to the one peened on the shaft than to disturb the peened one, as less chance of screwing things up.
-----Just some experience shared.
FYI:
Some aftermarket carbs on Evil pray were offering a option of choke and throttle, push/pull actuating tang placement, to eliminate custom fitting.

[ICOM 756]

Originally Posted by ol'George

Choke/throttle shafts:
Make sure you file/grind the end of the screws to remove the bradding/upsetting/peening of the threads FIRST
Ok, so now I tell you
I prefer to silver solder a small metal piece to the shaft push/pull rather than tack weld. either works if yer good at welding thin material.
Also if the choke cable can be rerouted(long enough) so it can come from a 180* direction to pull the choke,--- that works well and no messing with the shaft if it can be done, as some situations don't allow rerouting as things are in the way or ascetics (looks like shit)
I find it better to make a new tab and weld it to the one peened on the shaft than to disturb the peened one, as less chance of screwing things up.
-----Just some experience shared.
FYI:
Some aftermarket carbs on Evil pray were offering a option of choke and throttle, push/pull actuating tang placement, to eliminate custom fitting.

this aftermarket is from norm.. i save... so yeah its like a uni carb in a way with the tabs..

ill give the ends a try.. see what happens.. and yes.. looking like chit is not good .. i like clean looking cables and wires and such. even if u dont see them.. i know they r there and it drives me nuts hahhaha ..