First Cub - Page 5

Bryan S · #41 03-30-2021, 02:22 AM

Rusty, were able to get the S/G fixed up? Glad to read you were able to get the pulley off. I ran Web Offset Printing Presses for 30 years,
worked as a printer for 38. You want to talk about set screws. OMG! THEY CAN BE SUCH a P.I.T.A. !
The last press I ran had 8 units, 2 roll stands, 2 folders, all the gears inside each unit, folder etc. Well over 1000 of them Bast@&$ on the whole press.
I FREAKING HATE THEM

Sorry about that, I feel your pain.

Now keep us posted, and

with your project.

RustyShackleford · #42 03-30-2021, 12:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bryan S

Rusty, were able to get the S/G fixed up? Glad to read you were able to get the pulley off. I ran Web Offset Printing Presses for 30 years,
worked as a printer for 38. You want to talk about set screws. OMG! THEY CAN BE SUCH a P.I.T.A. !
The last press I ran had 8 units, 2 roll stands, 2 folders, all the gears inside each unit, folder etc. Well over 1000 of them Bast@&$ on the whole press.
I FREAKING HATE THEM

Sorry about that, I feel your pain.

Now keep us posted, and

with your project.

Yep, I replaced the broken soldered screw terminal on the S/G and it seemed to be working fine...just before I decided to tear into the engine

Once I get the engine running again I'll check again to make sure that the S/G is still charging. I still plan to go through it at a later date, probably by having a local alt shop machine down the commutator and all that.

Replacing the terminal wasn't all that hard, really - just stripped some new insulation off the wire, wrapped the wire around the new terminal post through the center slot, heated up the pair with a torch, and stabbed some solder into it. Time will tell if it holds up, I suppose

RustyShackleford · #43 03-30-2021, 11:22 PM

Have you guys seen something like this inside an engine before?

Hopefully the block isn’t junk

Wondering if excessive piston to bore clearance might have caused a lot of piston slap, or something.

Bryan S · #44 03-31-2021, 12:02 AM

The good news is that it's below the bottom stroke of the piston. Not sure if I worded that right,
but up can see where the piston stops, before it gets to the crack. There's a shiny spot at the bottom of the bore rim,
almost in the middle of the crack, where it looks like
something hit it, but it could be a casting crack/defect as well,
but doubt that. Hard to tell even with your very large pics, which is a
good thing for me, I don't see it being much of an issue.
Others will chime in with better terminology an advice.
I myself would clean it up real good with solvent and a
dremel, JB it, and use it.

EDIT: Is it stock bore? I ask because what ever hit that, would of had to
have been replaced.

RustyShackleford · #45 03-31-2021, 12:51 AM

I am pretty sure it’s .010 over, as that is what is stamped into the top of the piston. Will confirm soon - I’ll be taking it to the machine shop tomorrow. It does seem like the crack is below the lowest point of stroke.

The shiny spot may be where I was rubbing at the bottom of the bore with some carb cleaner and a rag.

Also, sorry about the large pics - I tried a different way of compressing and uploading them but they were so grainy and mushy you couldn’t really see the crack in question.

I’m sure this engine has been gone through before. The crank that’s in there now has “NAPA” written on it in paint pen, and the journal is egg-shaped and varies from 1.481” to 1.486” diameter (roughly; I measured with some digital calipers).

ol'George · #46 03-31-2021, 08:55 AM

My crystal ball says A person in the past,broke a rod and that is where it hit the block.
He then put in a new rod, and had it bored/honed .010 over.
I've seen many blocks with that piece broken out, not only on kohlers.
No problem using it.

I'll also say it was run with "crud" in the motor because of the light scoring on the cyl wall.
Do clean, clean, clean, a motor that is repaired/rebuilt INSIDE througly !!
If not you get the scoring wear inside you pictured.
Check the ball bearnigs for roughness/wear.

RustyShackleford · #47 03-31-2021, 12:15 PM

Awesome, I'm glad that I'll (probably) be able to use this block. I'll be sure to clean it up real well. And as for the bearings, I'm planning on replacing them both. One of them is an International bearing; possibly original? It feels rough. The other is an SKF 6308 which seems to be okay, but I figure I might as well replace both of them if I'm replacing one of them. Both should be replaceable by a 6308 bearing, correct? I'll probably look for another couple of SKF bearings, or Timkens. I'd rather not put some questionable bearings in there.

RustyShackleford · #48 03-31-2021, 09:49 PM

Machinist says I’ll need a new crank (or build up and regrind the existing one, which would probably be about $150). I’ve been trying to track one down but no luck so far. Does anyone know the part number for the crank for a K241A out of a 102? :help:

Edit: Based on some quick measurements and this PDF (http://www.smallenginesuppliers.com/...-reference.pdf), pages 14-19, I’m coming up with B-235613 or 47 142 09-S. I am assuming the latter superseded the former as they both appear to have the same dimensions. Hopefully someone can confirm that that’s the one

Bryan S · #49 04-01-2021, 12:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RustyShackleford

Machinist says I’ll need a new crank (or build up and regrind the existing one, which would probably be about $150). I’ve been trying to track one down but no luck so far. Does anyone know the part number for the crank for a K241A out of a 102? :help:

Edit: Based on some quick measurements and this PDF (http://www.smallenginesuppliers.com/...-reference.pdf), pages 14-19, I’m coming up with B-235613 or 47 142 09-S. I am assuming the latter superseded the former as they both appear to have the same dimensions. Hopefully someone can confirm that that’s the one

Partstree says number is Cub Cadet KH-47-142-09

KIT-CRANKSHAFT
F.Y.I.$150.00 to weld up your's and regrind to spec is a pretty decent price.

Bryan S · #50 04-01-2021, 03:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bryan S

F.Y.I.$150.00 to weld up your's and regrind to spec is a pretty decent price.

OK here's some of the options that I think you have.
You are in CA and IIRC, Old cubs and parts are not that common?
Options
1)Get the crank welded up and use that. My choice

2) Find a used unknown for $100.00 + shipping if nothing local, and hope for the best.

3) Buy a NOS for $300.00 or more + shipping