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  #1  
Old 05-26-2011, 09:18 PM
krhoover krhoover is offline
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Default Splitting

I have been reading old posts on here and have seen several references to splitting the tractor. What does that mean exactly?
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Old 05-26-2011, 09:27 PM
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Removing the complete rear end from the tractor frame.
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  #3  
Old 05-26-2011, 09:28 PM
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Cub Cadet 123 Cub Cadet 123 is offline
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It means removing the rear tranny from the rest of the tractor. If you have a model "original" , then you will have the bolts readily accessible and your tractor frame will actually split right in half. If you have a different model, then the rearend/transmission will be removed from the frame. That's splitting the tractor the easy way!!! The hard way is to use a reciprocating saw---let's just say that way isn't pretty and the tractor won't be of much use afterwards!!!

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Old 05-26-2011, 09:32 PM
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Diz Jr. Diz Jr. is offline
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This is what i call splitting the tractor
Removing the rear end.





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  #5  
Old 05-26-2011, 09:37 PM
krhoover krhoover is offline
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Looks like it gets pretty involved, Apx how much time does it take and are there gaskets ect to replace? Am going to repair trunion, wheel bearings, check out steering ect, and am trying to cover all the bases. thanks
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Old 05-27-2011, 10:11 PM
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westofb westofb is offline
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by krhoover View Post
Looks like it gets pretty involved, Apx how much time does it take and are there gaskets ect to replace? Am going to repair trunion, wheel bearings, check out steering ect, and am trying to cover all the bases. thanks
It depends on what model tractor you have. I am redoing a 149, it was very easy to split, after getting the fenders off, I guess it took me about 15 minutes to get it apart. You have to disconnect to linkages to the hydro unit (mine had 2 I think), disconnect the brake rigging, remove 6 blots were it bolts to the frame, and disconnect the hydrallic lines to the lift. Of course I spent a couple hours getting the fenders off, those damn slotted head pan screws that hold the foot pads and fenders to the frame are a real PITA! I bought stainless steel allen head pan head bolts to replace the originals, it ought to go back together a little easier!

I just hit the highlights, you will have to support both front and rear halves with jack stands and a floor jack, once everything is unbolted, you can roll the rear end backwards out of the frame. The manual shows using a large adjustable wrench on the rear hitch, it does work good to help keep it under control while rolling it out.

If you haven't already done so, download the service manual for you model tractor, it will tell you step by step how to split the tractor, plus gives you tips (like the adjustable wrench) how to proceed. Go to the technical section of the web site and look for tractor manuals.
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  #7  
Old 11-08-2020, 12:21 AM
Aurthos45 Aurthos45 is offline
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It means Removing the complete rear end from the tractor frame.
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  #8  
Old 11-08-2020, 07:18 AM
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ol'George ol'George is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aurthos45 View Post
It means Removing the complete rear end from the tractor frame.
We see you are new.
Just a FYI:
Replying to old posts especially something like this is a moot point.
After 9 years I'm near sure problems are resolved/discussed.
But hey everyone has to learn the ropes.
Welcome to OCC
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

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