Long cranks and setting points, 124 k301

[cooperino]

Originally Posted by Rwgarrison23

So this is interesting. Changing out the spark plug to autolite 216 and gapping to .035 seem to solve everything. 2 full rotation with choke on and half throttle and engine fired up then i gave it about 5 seconds then cut the choke off. Runs fairly smooth. The champion plug took almost 6 or 8 rotation before it fired up. So, I let it warm up and cut her off. I will try again in about 30 minutes and see what she does.

Unfortunately my kohler is burning oil, haha. Blue smoke. So for now to get me through the winter, I put 15w40 rotella. It sits in a climate controlled garage, so starting in cold wont be a issue.

I did not take my points cover off yet to see if its arcing. I will do so just in case.

Well, okay, however. With old carb, I bet the problem would still be there. The last carb fouled the other plug. Now good carb and plug and presto. 2 issues

As far as burning oil.. have you checked valves? Breather?

[Rwgarrison23]

Yes, I checked the valve clearance when I had the breather cover off for cleaning. It was within spec. So I left it alone. It only does it when I rev the throttle and set it then goes away.

[cooperino]

Originally Posted by Rwgarrison23

Yes, I checked the valve clearance when I had the breather cover off for cleaning. It was within spec. So I left it alone. It only does it when I rev the throttle and set it then goes away.

Run it a few times checking oil each time. I doubt its burning much from what your describing.

[Rwgarrison23]

Originally Posted by cooperino

Run it a few times checking oil each time. I doubt its burning much from what your describing.

Before I changed oil this evening, I checked it and it was half low.

[Rwgarrison23]

What can contribute to burning oil other than piston rings?

[cooperino]

Originally Posted by Rwgarrison23

What can contribute to burning oil other than piston rings?

In post 1 you described "bringing it back to life" My question is, how long did it sit prior to this? And did you just buy this as a non running tractor?

Some of the issues you talked about early on could indicate worn rings. Taking a long time to start could have been could indicate this but obviously you had other issues as well.

When you had the cylinder head off, how did the cylinder wall look? could you still see cross hatching in it? Did you feel the piston for slop in the cylinder? If so how much?

Did you true the head before installing new gasket?

If it sat for a long time, was there any rust in the cylinder that could keep the rings from seating well?

When you took apart the breather did you put it back together in correct order? Many people make the mistake of not putting it back together correctly.

Did you check the valve guides/ seats? They could pass oil if out of spec.

[Rwgarrison23]

Originally Posted by cooperino

In post 1 you described "bringing it back to life" My question is, how long did it sit prior to this? And did you just buy this as a non running tractor?

Some of the issues you talked about early on could indicate worn rings. Taking a long time to start could have been could indicate this but obviously you had other issues as well.

When you had the cylinder head off, how did the cylinder wall look? could you still see cross hatching in it? Did you feel the piston for slop in the cylinder? If so how much?

Did you true the head before installing new gasket?

If it sat for a long time, was there any rust in the cylinder that could keep the rings from seating well?

When you took apart the breather did you put it back together in correct order? Many people make the mistake of not putting it back together correctly.

Did you check the valve guides/ seats? They could pass oil if out of spec.

I can only answer a few questions.

I bought it when it sat outside and ran poorly. I bought it anyway because it was the coolest tractor and my 1st. Had a snow blade on it.

The clyinder wall looked great. I did not check for slop. I didnt think of it. Very clean clyinder walls. Oil was filthy although.

I made sure my mating surface was true before installing new gasket and torqued to spec. I plan to do a compression check as well this evening.

The breather assembly, I did have trouble remembering which way it back together but after a few tries, I put it back together that made most sense to me. I hope I got it right. Any picture of that assembly I can go by?

[cooperino]

Originally Posted by Rwgarrison23

I can only answer a few questions.

I bought it when it sat outside and ran poorly. I bought it anyway because it was the coolest tractor and my 1st. Had a snow blade on it.

The clyinder wall looked great. I did not check for slop. I didnt think of it. Very clean clyinder walls. Oil was filthy although.

I made sure my mating surface was true before installing new gasket and torqued to spec. I plan to do a compression check as well this evening.

The breather assembly, I did have trouble remembering which way it back together but after a few tries, I put it back together that made most sense to me. I hope I got it right. Any picture of that assembly I can go by?

Ok.. cylinder wall looked great? Not sure what that means, smooth?

True mating surface on head to block? How wa la that achieved? How did you ensure it was flat?

Yes. Breather assembly is in manual.

[Rwgarrison23]

Originally Posted by cooperino

Ok.. cylinder wall looked great? Not sure what that means, smooth?

True mating surface on head to block? How wa la that achieved? How did you ensure it was flat?

Yes. Breather assembly is in manual.

Smooth as in no scoring or rust or anything looked out of place.

I used a metal straight edge on multiple angles. Probably not close enough but both side lay equal.

I'm going do cold and hot compression check.

[cooperino]

Originally Posted by Rwgarrison23

Smooth as in no scoring or rust or anything looked out of place.

I used a metal straight edge on multiple angles. Probably not close enough but both side lay equal.

I'm going do cold and hot compression check.

You should visibly see cross hatch on cylinder wall.

You true a head by running on flat piece of glass or flat stone with sand paper.

The engine has a compression release. You need to follow procedures for checking compression