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  #1  
Old 05-08-2019, 08:52 PM
BradH BradH is offline
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Join Date: May 2019
Location: Iowa
Posts: 15
Default Another question about my 1650

A quick carb clean and a new spark plug and my new 1650 runs pretty decent. Also changed the air filter which helped some too. Still working on trying to tune the carb a little but it's getting there. The problem right now is with the choke. We've adjusted the cable a couple times but as the engine runs the choke moves. The button on the dash moves out about a quarter of an inch or so. Of course this makes it run rough and will kill it at a low idle. I can hold it in and it runs pretty good. I just run out of hands trying to steer, run the hydro, and hold the choke in. Does anybody have any ideas or suggestions about this problem? Carberators aren't really our thing so any tips there would be great too. It doesn't seem to make a difference which screw we turn or how far we turn it at the moment.
Thanks,
Brad
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  #2  
Old 05-09-2019, 08:07 AM
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ol'George ol'George is offline
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Default

A choke wire-in-jacket, inherently has enough friction to keep it put where one sets it.
But sometimes kinks/ routing and vibrations changes that.
Soooo, loosen the clamp @ the carb end and adjust the outer jacket so it allows for that 1/4-1/2" it wants to move out of the dash.
Nothing wrong with it sticking up a bit as long as the butterfly in the carb is open while it is running.
As much as those big singles vibrate, shake, rattle & roll, abnormalities happen.

I had '56 Harley pan head chopper back in '67 and it shook almost as bad as a 16 hp Kohler setting on rubber baby buggy bumpers
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Old 05-09-2019, 02:33 PM
twoton twoton is offline
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There is a lever arm bolted to the blower housing that the end of the choke cable attaches to. It acts as a redirect to control the choke plate on the carb. You may be able to tighten the bolt to add more tension to the lever arm. If that doesn't work you may be able to add one of the spring washers to increase the resistance.

Good luck.
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Old 05-09-2019, 03:37 PM
BradH BradH is offline
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Okay, thanks. Both good suggestions. I'll give them a try. We already adjusted the cable once or twice but it's worth another shot. Are there any reasons why the adjustment screws don't seem to make a difference when we turn them? I messed with it for 15 minuites the other day and they never seemed to change too much for me. But I'm fairly new at carb adjustment so I may just not have the nack for it yet.
Thanks again for the help,
Brad
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  #5  
Old 05-12-2019, 02:57 PM
AndrewNoyes AndrewNoyes is offline
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I'd suggest making sure you download the manual for your engine, so that you know what each screw does. If you're tweaking screws at idle, you'll miss the fact that high speed may be being affected, etc.
For what its worth, I'm not great at it either. But i know the various adjustments interact, and it may take going round and round a few times.
Good luck!
Andy
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

MTD Products, Inc. of Cleveland, Ohio purchased the Cub Cadet brand from International Harvester in 1981. Cub Cadet was held as a wholly owned subsidiary for many years following this acquisition, which allowed them to operate independently. Recently, MTD has taken a more aggressive role and integrated Cub Cadet into its other lines of power equipment.

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