1200 Clutch Part Issue(s)

[nashcub]

Hello! I picked up a 1200 this weekend at an estate sale. It looked pretty rough, but cleaned up super! (see photo album) It is definitely a keeper. Now I have to eliminate one (or two) of my other Cub projects to get the 1200 back in order.

I took it apart on Sunday to go through the driveline and replace the engine mounts. I knew there were going to be some other issues, however, I was not really expecting the driver plate to be lunched/shattered. I have made the decision to go ahead and throw "some" money at the 1200 to do it right. I will be replacing a lot of the driveline and clutch components.

My question is... Is there an aftermarket driver plate that would be superior to the OEM? I'd rather go ahead and put in an upgrade part, so that I will not have to replace it again in the near future. If the OEM is recommended, then that will be fine too. I will also be replacing the hub pilot bearing.

Other change will probably involve installing a creeper that I have laying around somewhere in the garage. This will require a new drive shaft. I'd also like to beef up the spring, but it does not have to be "puller" strong.

I guess the bottom line is that I would like some help with suggestions AND on laying out a parts list so that I can get everything ordered and installed. I do not have much experience with the manual trannys, as most of my Cubs have been hydros.

BTW, this 1200 will not see much action once it is put back together. It is really too nice to get it dirty again! Fortunately, I have a 1450 that is not afraid of the dirt...

TIA!!!

Steve

[Matt G.]

As long as you put new OEM engine mounts back in and do the cradle mod, the stock clutch parts will be fine.

You do not need a new driveshaft to install the creeper...all you have to do it cut it at the score mark if it's an OEM driveshaft. However, I'm going to guess that the driveshaft probably has enough wear on it to justify replacing it, so just make a new one with the holes in the same place as the old one, and cut it to the length to the score mark on the old driveshaft. Go to the tech library and find the link to the online parts lookup, and then you can print off the exploded view of the clutch. In addition to what you've mentioned, I would replace the teaser spring, friction disc, have the pressure plates resurfaced on a lathe, get a new main spring (stock is fine for a stock 12 hp engine) and all new spirol pins and rubber discs for the rear coupler. The coupler itself also needs replacing if it wobbles on the input shaft of the trans.

A stronger clutch spring and a creeper aren't going to play nice. The bearing in the creeper is just an ordinary ball bearing, not an angular contact or thrust bearing, so every time you put the clutch in, you are applying an axial force to the bearing that it is not designed to withstand. This is one weak point in the creepers, and why the bearing in a used one is always so loose. Someday I'm going to try to modify one of my creepers to use an angular contact bearing so I can use it in my 582 with 800#/in. clutch spring.

Lastly, if you don't actually need the creeper for throwing snow or tilling, I wouldn't bother installing it. It's just one more thing to keep an eye on and leak oil all over the floor.

[william1041200]

the main reason the clutch disk and driver fail in a 1200 are the engine mounts, and separate rails. I am pretty sure that in my 104 the entire clutch and driveshaft assembly were 40 years old. that machine is narrow frame and engine mounts directly to frame rails .
Matt- try a thrust roller bearing. they take up less space than an angular contact bearing, and are much more durable. angular contact is better for low thrust and high speed.

[nashcub]

Matt and William,

Thank you so much for your input!

Matt, I was thinking about this project today, and I have to totally agree with you. In regard to the clutch and driveline, there is really no reason for me to go beyond the OEM configuration. I just need to get it back to what it was.

I'm not ruling out the addition of the creeper, as I will be adding some of the other available options on this tractor:

Headlights.
Rear Lift.
Spring assist.

I guess that what I am getting at is that this little guy will be a "half-ass" trailer queen. -lol

To make it happen, I'm going to drop some of the other Cub projects that I had in the works. The 582 is on the block, the 400hr 1450 is a goner, Didier Hydra-Sickle, parting out the 2072, 782... I need to get all of this on the 'For Sale' thread... Anyway, I'm looking forward to getting this 1200 back to par.

William, what's the story behind the bearing replacement? I'd like to learn more about it.

Thank you all again for your input and insight!

[Mlamar]

Sounds like your working on a fun project. I hope you can share some pictures when you get your Cub done the way you want her (since she will be the "Queen"). I personally like the creeper units, but I am one of those guys that like options also. I have never had any real problems with creeper units in my Cubs. I do rebuild them before I install them and have found that it's not that hard to do. Good luck and enjoy your project. This is a great site for help.

[william1041200]

i dont know anything about a creeper bearing upgrade, was just suggesting to matt a bearing type that i think will work better. I don't even have a creeper for any of my tractors. Sorry I couldnt help.