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#1
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2 of the bolts that hold the cowl to the tower have broke off on my 127 when I was dis-assembling it. What's the best method to get those out? I haven't been able to hold a regular drill bit on there, it keeps sliding off to the side and I'm afraid I'm going to mess up the threads. I guess the nut is spot welded to the back side could I just pop it off and go with a regular nut/bolt?
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Gary '49 Farmall Cub, '62 "Original, '70 73 w/402-D Haban sickle, '71 127 w/38" cast end deck, '73 149, '76 Sof76, '07 LT1045 w/bagger, '09 GT2544 w/bunch of mods. 5 Exmarks, Kubota B2920, blah, blah, blah... |
#2
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can not tell from picture but if there is any thing flush or above the sheet metal and you want to try to salvage it i would grind it smooth and center punch it and the drill bit will not walk. if you can not grind it smooth then try the center punch as a second plan, if that all fails you can grind it all off and reweld another nut on the under side and chase it out with a tap.or you can use a nut and bolt, you have many options at this point
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#3
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Don't ya hate it when that happens!
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#4
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I went the center punch route and re-tapped it. I'll have to take a couple "after" pics, I think it turned out nice!
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Gary '49 Farmall Cub, '62 "Original, '70 73 w/402-D Haban sickle, '71 127 w/38" cast end deck, '73 149, '76 Sof76, '07 LT1045 w/bagger, '09 GT2544 w/bunch of mods. 5 Exmarks, Kubota B2920, blah, blah, blah... |
#5
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All of the bolts (aside from engine) are low grade so I always center punch, drill, and tap.
Most times, if a bolt looks bad, and it's accessible, I don't even try to back them out. Give it some left to see if it moves, then just 1/2" ratchet to the right and snap it. If it's going to happen, might as well skip the irritation then get P'd off when halfway out it does anyway.
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