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  #31  
Old 08-23-2017, 10:33 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Originally Posted by zcub22 View Post
Touchy. I've not used hydro transmissions before and I still find it hard to believe that i can just ram it into reverse without doing damage. That's why.
Well.... you can, but you probably shouldn't "ram" it into reverse. Steady, smooth operation is best.

I'm not "touchy". It just shouldn't take saying something that many times before someone listens.
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  #32  
Old 08-23-2017, 10:40 PM
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Touchy. I've not used hydro transmissions before and I still find it hard to believe that i can just ram it into reverse without doing damage. That's why.
When you push the brake lever down it moves the hydro lever to the neutral position so doing it by hand is no different.
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  #33  
Old 08-23-2017, 11:00 PM
Randy Littrell Randy Littrell is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zcub22 View Post
Touchy. I've not used hydro transmissions before and I still find it hard to believe that i can just ram it into reverse without doing damage. That's why.
My 1277 Wheel Horse doesn't even have brakes. It only has a parking brake that just holds a gear in the tranny after you have used the lever to stop it. I have a loader on it and run it back and forth quite a lot and no problem at all.

The WH uses a sunstrand very similar to a cubs.





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  #34  
Old 08-24-2017, 12:11 AM
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Sounds funny to me about someone using the pedal to stop a hydro. I don't even know it's there except to start the machine. Sure glad I can run it by hand, and don't need the feet.
Yeah go ahead and say something smart a$$ you all, I left the door wide open.
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  #35  
Old 08-24-2017, 12:36 AM
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Man, what a bunch of dim lights we have here. Especially J-Mech of all people.

The brake on a hydro can be set so the tractor don't roll away when the pressure subsides in the hydro pump. Also, the brake can be set while the tractor is "RUNNING" while you get off and remove objects in the way! I always have the brake set while the engine is running and I'm off it preforming visual inspections of the engine, or any other component of the machine.

Anyone ever leave their hydro drive cub cadet sit for a few weeks? I do. And I can tell you that I can push the tractor slowly, with out activating the pump dump valve. There is nothing wrong with my hydro drive tractor, either! You all are saying the brake is for stopping on a hydro drive? When you know full-well that once depressed fully, the tractor returns to neutral position as the brake engages.

So from what all you "engineers" are claiming, is that IH just decided to add an extra bunch of B.S to a garden tractor back in 1975 ( Quiet Line 1450 ) that cost nearly 3K$????

Keep smoking your pipes!
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  #36  
Old 08-24-2017, 03:16 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Originally Posted by johncub7172 View Post
Man, what a bunch of dim lights we have here. Especially J-Mech of all people.

The brake on a hydro can be set so the tractor don't roll away when the pressure subsides in the hydro pump. Also, the brake can be set while the tractor is "RUNNING" while you get off and remove objects in the way! I always have the brake set while the engine is running and I'm off it preforming visual inspections of the engine, or any other component of the machine.

Anyone ever leave their hydro drive cub cadet sit for a few weeks? I do. And I can tell you that I can push the tractor slowly, with out activating the pump dump valve. There is nothing wrong with my hydro drive tractor, either! You all are saying the brake is for stopping on a hydro drive? When you know full-well that once depressed fully, the tractor returns to neutral position as the brake engages.

So from what all you "engineers" are claiming, is that IH just decided to add an extra bunch of B.S to a garden tractor back in 1975 ( Quiet Line 1450 ) that cost nearly 3K$????

Keep smoking your pipes!

John, I'm not sure what you are getting at with this post. Didn't make much sense. I'm well aware how a tractor works, drives and how to fix it. Don't really need any help in that area.....Logged thousands of hours in the seat of tractors, and thousands of hours in shop working on them. I'm not really sure what the heck you are talking about the engineers adding things that weren't needed to a GT starting with the QL tractors?? As far as brakes are concerned, all the hydro tractors have had them since the beginning. Oh well.... guess I'll go smoke my pipe.
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  #37  
Old 08-24-2017, 03:42 PM
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I don't even have brakes in my car. I just drag my feet.

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  #38  
Old 08-25-2017, 12:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J-Mech View Post
John, I'm not sure what you are getting at with this post. Didn't make much sense. I'm well aware how a tractor works, drives and how to fix it. Don't really need any help in that area.....Logged thousands of hours in the seat of tractors, and thousands of hours in shop working on them. I'm not really sure what the heck you are talking about the engineers adding things that weren't needed to a GT starting with the QL tractors?? As far as brakes are concerned, all the hydro tractors have had them since the beginning. Oh well.... guess I'll go smoke my pipe.
Jon, actually I was in a good mood when I posted that. I was just trying to stir the pot a little on your behalf! No offence to smokers either.

In reading along this thread, and coming to the conclusion that brakes are not needed on hydro drive model garden tractors.

I have to agree with you, in that the member who posted the question should tighten the brakes with in reason, and not to park on hills. Though, some places are very hilly, block the rear tires.

But to say the 149 brake system won't hold the tractor in place kind of goes against the purpose of the need for them in the first place!

Well, I'll keep this one under my hat, ! lol!
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  #39  
Old 08-25-2017, 01:49 AM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Lol. Alright John. I get the humor and sarcasm now, but I just couldn't figure out if you were serious, or sarcastic or what. It's all good.
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  #40  
Old 08-25-2017, 09:00 AM
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Just as little brake/hydro story to add to the mix....

I have a friend who has a an old JD Model 120, it 's a 12 hp Kohler with the same Sunstrand hydro as our Cubs. Now the brakes on this thing really suck because it is a drum brake and there is only one, about 4" diameter on the right rear hub.

So this guy has a couple acre field behind his house that he cuts a couple times a year. The field sits probably 75-80 feet lower than his main back yard. The access between the upper and lower is a very steep grassy path about 20 feet wide with trees and brush on both sides with a slight curve to the left. I don't know anything about grade percentage but walking up this hill can make you puff.

Anyway, I have been there and see him drive that JD down that slope. Sure, he doesn't use the brake because it is useless, but as he goes down the slope with the hydro set at its lowest speed, the right rear wheel is trying to slow the tractor but the tractor wants to go faster. So the right rear begins to slide. When that happens, the left rear wheel begins to spin it the reverse direction just like it would if you had the back of the tractor jacked up and were turning one wheel by hand. Crazy, I just shake my head and he laughs.
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