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#22
05-21-2017, 07:20 AM
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I love how you've documented everything with photos. It's fun to watch the progress. Good save on the 1650, what with the tiller gear box and the dual hydraulic stick option. Keep it up!
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Daniel G.  . (May 1970) 147 w/an IH spring assist, 48" deck, 42" blade, 1969 73, #2 trailer, 10" Brinly plow and (on loan) Dad's #2 tiller. 
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#23
05-21-2017, 10:24 AM
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Seems like your go at it attitude is keeping you busy, but in the end you will be rewarded with a great tractor.
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Up to 530 and counting... I give up updating my profile!
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#24
05-21-2017, 07:16 PM
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Thanks for all the replies and encouragement. I feel I need to get in to the hydraulics, but have no experience with them. How difficult or sensitive are they to drain, fill, etc? In other words, if I start disconnecting hoses, am I going to get in over my head?
I have a couple of jugs of new Cub Cadet hydro fluid. I figure at the very least I should drain and put new fluid in. I really would like to remove the hydraulics for now, and power wash the frame, apply the new wiring harness, and the start reassembling, but as I wrote, I have never dealt with hydraulics or even the transmission before.
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#25
05-21-2017, 07:24 PM
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The pump is self priming so you won't have an issue if you unhook the lines. Be sure to put caps over the ports on the rearend to keep dirt out.
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Tim Pap's 100 Restored 108 1211 Dual Stick 1050 Pap's 100 restoration thread - http://onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=47965
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#26
05-21-2017, 10:12 PM
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You're doing great so far. Just remember that dirt is the number one enemy to hydraulics. As Tim stated, if you remove lines make sure to keep dirt out. It may be better to power wash once with the hydraulic system intact and all lines connected, to remove as much crud as possible. Then remove the lines and valve, cap off the pump and wash the frame and rear again carefully. I'd also recommend pulling the diff cover and cleaning out the differential housing as well. You've got a really nice project there. I'd love to have a 1650 with those options.
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149, 2072, Original, 1772, 1782, #1 cart, Parker 48" sweeper,
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#27
05-21-2017, 10:12 PM
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Quote:
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#28
05-27-2017, 12:03 PM
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The replacement parts are starting to trickle in. I also found some parts at a neighbor's. Pretty soon, I should be able to start my reassembly.
The drive shaft I ordered off eBay came it, but sadly the transmission fan lost a couple of blades in shipping. The plastic is brittle, and it wasn't packed to handle the beating the shipping people give it. Thankfully the seller backed it and said he would reimburse me for the replacement fan I had to order. I will still need to remove the roll pins and flanges to get the new fan on, but I am hoping it won't be as brittle. The fan should be in Tuesday, I hope.   The complete wiring harness. I should be able to start on this right away.  Complete gasket kit for the engine. I don't plan on doing a rebuild of the engine, but I will replace what gaskets I can without really getting in to it. The oil pan definitely has a leak, so this should solve that.  I had a bag on engine mounts already, but forgot that, so I ordered some, and then found the other bag. Plenty to go around now!  Axle pin. This was the thing that brought the tractor in to my garage. The front axle was all over the place because the roll pin that held the original sheered, and the axle pin slid out, allowing the cross member to move all over.  And of course, the adjustment pin for the steering box. I could have stayed with the original, and turned it a bit, but it would have warn down sooner than later. This way I have a new replacement in there, and should get years of good use.  I'm still waiting for the end flange that the drive shaft goes in to on the engine, and a couple other little baubles.
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#30
06-03-2017, 08:49 PM
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I had a bit of time to bang out some more work on this project. First, I think I will deal with the drive shaft, and hydro fan. To replace the fan, I will need to drive out the roll pin, and take the flange off, then remove the c-clip from the fan, and slide the fan off, and reassemble.
The flange is a bit loose. The roll pin appears to be worn. Knocking the roll pin out using a punch.   Image on the right is the flange and roll pin from the shaft I bought. The roll pin is shot, but I can use the roll pin from the other shaft.  Extract the C-Clip, and slide the fan off. I think I will sand and paint the whole thing before putting the fan on. 
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.
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