Question About Drill Testing a Hydro Unit

[ajs96]

I was inspired by another thread on here to attempt to test a hydro unit on my project 149.

I have it in a bay in the garage and up on jack stands and torn down to just the frame and hydro system/rearend. This might seem like a profoundly rookie question, but which direction should i spin it with the drill? The cooling fan is broken off completely so i can't use it as a guide and the motor in currently torn down to the block...and up until the last few weeks i have no experience at all with these Kohlers or any real garden tractors.

I made an "adapter" that works fine with my 1/2" 750rpm max drill. I should see results at that RPM, correct? Both the manual release valves with stuck down completely and i worked them loose last evening with some pretty intense PB Blaster rehab and massaging and then reinstalled them. The interior surfaces on the valves looked perfect and so did all the seals. Also, the Hytran level appears to be about 2.5-3 inches below the fill hole, but what fluid i do get on my homemade dipstick look brand new and smells appropriate. Are the hydro functions going even function being that low or do i need to add more fluid first.

All i am trying to do is get more positive feedback with the project, if i see the hydraulics work fine, it will light a fire under my rear and i'll get this thing wrapped up in a couple weeks or so.

[Matt G.]

Run the drill CCW.

[ol'George]

Originally Posted by ajs96

I was inspired by another thread on here to attempt to test a hydro unit on my project 149.

I have it in a bay in the garage and up on jack stands and torn down to just the frame and hydro system/rearend. This might seem like a profoundly rookie question, but which direction should i spin it with the drill? The cooling fan is broken off completely so i can't use it as a guide and the motor in currently torn down to the block...and up until the last few weeks i have no experience at all with these Kohlers or any real garden tractors.

I made an "adapter" that works fine with my 1/2" 750rpm max drill. I should see results at that RPM, correct? Both the manual release valves with stuck down completely and i worked them loose last evening with some pretty intense PB Blaster rehab and massaging and then reinstalled them. The interior surfaces on the valves looked perfect and so did all the seals. Also, the Hytran level appears to be about 2.5-3 inches below the fill hole, but what fluid i do get on my homemade dipstick look brand new and smells appropriate. Are the hydro functions going even function being that low or do i need to add more fluid first.

All i am trying to do is get more positive feedback with the project, if i see the hydraulics work fine, it will light a fire under my rear and i'll get this thing wrapped up in a couple weeks or so.

Here is what I did a couple of years ago with simular concerns, there were 2 problems though,
#1:
My 3/4 drill only went 500 rpm's and it took a while till all was primed.
It seems like I had to run the drill in a reverse direction.
#2: I run out of extension cord after 100' Ha,LOL!

[ajs96]

My 3/4 drill only went 500 rpm's and it took a while till all was primed.

I didn't think or know that, these hydraulic pump units have regenerate a prime each time? I would have assumed that check valves, etc would keep them from losing a prime. However, i literally know almost nothing about hydraulics...but i've got quite a bit of experience in other types of mechanical fields.

[ol'George]

Sorry,
Guess I should have mentioned I had drained & refilled the reservoir and put in a new dry filter that also had to be filled.