2182 Driveshaft Removal

Jibber · #1 12-26-2016, 06:45 PM

Hi All -

I need to replace the driveshaft boots on my 2182 driveshaft. I read the service manual and it is saying that I need to remove the radiator in order to remove the driveshaft. I just wanted to see if anyone had any recommendations or tips before I tackled this job. I also need to replace the cork gasket between the hydrostatic pump and transmission. I am wondering if I should pull the pump and replace this gasket while I have the driveshaft out. Any recommendations/advice?

Thanks!

Sam Mac · #2 12-26-2016, 07:03 PM

You do not need to remove the radiator, I use an allen wrench that fits on a 3/8" drive long extension. Then you can remove the 4 socket head bolts from under the dash tower. You may as well do the cork gasket at the same time. Personally I'd pull the whole rear and pump to do it. While you have the rear out pop the axle tubes, drill the oil drain holes in the case, replace the axle gaskets and be done with it. Oh yeah and put a set of Xtreme SGTrear end braces on it.

Links to threads I've done over the years.
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=33244

Alvy · #3 12-26-2016, 07:17 PM

Good question Jibber. I need to do both jobs you stated on my 1782. Well, no boots but need to replace the rear adapter with a jeff in PA one. And yes, the manual does state stuff sometimes that might be unnecessary so it's always good to post stuff like this. Thank you and thank you Sam.

Dirty Steve · #4 12-26-2016, 07:41 PM

Such a low hour machine. Do those maintenance items and it will outlast you....

Jibber · #5 12-26-2016, 09:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sam Mac

You do not need to remove the radiator, I use an allen wrench that fits on a 3/8" drive long extension. Then you can remove the 4 socket head bolts from under the dash tower. You may as well do the cork gasket at the same time. Personally I'd pull the whole rear and pump to do it. While you have the rear out pop the axle tubes, drill the oil drain holes in the case, replace the axle gaskets and be done with it. Oh yeah and put a set of Xtreme SGTrear end braces on it.

Links to threads I've done over the years.
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=33244

Thanks Sam! I am going to try and remove the pump to do the cork gasket replacement. If I had time I would remove the rearend and do all you mention but I will have about 6 hours without the little ones tomorrow and am going to try and focus on the driveshaft and that cork gasket.

Question, my plan is to remove the driveshaft first. So, are you saying that I should remove the 4 sockethead bolts near the front that connect the drive coupling to the engine, then remove the rear 4 bolts that connect the rear coupling to the hydrostatic pump, and the drive shaft should then slide out? It does look like a tight squeeze if I don't remove the radiator first so I just want to double check first. Also, do I need to remove the rear fenders to do this and the cork gasket replacement or will removing the tunnel cover suffice? Am just trying to figure out how the driveshaft will pull out.

Thanks!

Jibber · #6 12-26-2016, 10:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Alvy

Good question Jibber. I need to do both jobs you stated on my 1782. Well, no boots but need to replace the rear adapter with a jeff in PA one. And yes, the manual does state stuff sometimes that might be unnecessary so it's always good to post stuff like this. Thank you and thank you Sam.

I'm wondering if I should replace the rear adapter with a "Jeff in PA" one. Where do I get one? Maybe I will wait to do this job until I get one. And looks like this might take longer than the 6 hours I have tomorrow. And I just checked, I would definitely need to remove rear fenders. Don't want to rush and want to make sure I do this right.

Jibber · #7 12-26-2016, 10:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dirty Steve

Such a low hour machine. Do those maintenance items and it will outlast you....

Yep, that's what I'm trying to get done.

Sam Mac · #8 12-27-2016, 06:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jibber

Thanks Sam! I am going to try and remove the pump to do the cork gasket replacement. If I had time I would remove the rearend and do all you mention but I will have about 6 hours without the little ones tomorrow and am going to try and focus on the driveshaft and that cork gasket.

Question, my plan is to remove the driveshaft first. So, are you saying that I should remove the 4 sockethead bolts near the front that connect the drive coupling to the engine, then remove the rear 4 bolts that connect the rear coupling to the hydrostatic pump, and the drive shaft should then slide out? It does look like a tight squeeze if I don't remove the radiator first so I just want to double check first. Also, do I need to remove the rear fenders to do this and the cork gasket replacement or will removing the tunnel cover suffice? Am just trying to figure out how the driveshaft will pull out.

Thanks!

The fenders need to come off. Pull the 4 bolts on each end of the drive shaft and you can wiggle the shaft out. It's a tight fit. I'd at least pull the fuel tank and replace the tank bushings, clean the shut off valves and replace the fuel hose's while your in that far but do as you please.

Jibber · #9 12-27-2016, 08:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sam Mac

The fenders need to come off. Pull the 4 bolts on each end of the drive shaft and you can wiggle the shaft out. It's a tight fit. I'd at least pull the fuel tank and replace the tank bushings, clean the shut off valves and replace the fuel hose's while your in that far but do as you please.

Thanks Sam. I may wait until it warms up to do this job. I already did a fuel system upgrade a couple months ago.