K321 Flywheel removal

[Texas Blues]

Originally Posted by ironman

I have taken a few flywheels off that have been a real PITA, and I dreaded the idea that I may have to take the same one off again. So, I have been applying a thin coat of anti-seize lubricant to the shaft when I put them back on. Any that I ever had to re-remove have come off with ease. I'm curious what opinions are as to this being a good idea or a bad one.

I do the same thing (on almost all bolts as well). The last time I removed a flywheel that had the anti seize on it, the flywheel popped off while snugging down the long bolts that went through the puller and screwed into the flywheel. I'm sure its not that easy every time with the anti seize, but it sure don't hurt. TB

[RLause]

The Kohler manual says the crankshaft should be clean and completely free of lubricant when assembling the flywheel to the engine.

[OverKnight]

Briggs & Stratton also states no lubricants; clean and dry only. I think there's often a tendency to carefully clean the crankshaft but ignore the flywheel. Any rust in the tapered hole will decrease the "bite" the flywheel has on the shaft, resulting in keys shearing more easily. I always wipe out the tapered hole in the flywheel with some crocus cloth or fine emery cloth That said, there have been a few times where I put a very light coating of oil on the crankshaft, which both prevents rust and makes removal easier. It goes without saying that I always use a torque wrench to ensure the nut is tightened to the proper specifications.

[ironman]

Originally Posted by RLause

The Kohler manual says the crankshaft should be clean and completely free of lubricant when assembling the flywheel to the engine.

Originally Posted by OverKnight

Briggs & Stratton also states no lubricants; clean and dry only. I think there's often a tendency to carefully clean the crankshaft but ignore the flywheel. Any rust in the tapered hole will decrease the "bite" the flywheel has on the shaft, resulting in keys shearing more easily. I always wipe out the tapered hole in the flywheel with some crocus cloth or fine emery cloth That said, there have been a few times where I put a very light coating of oil on the crankshaft, which both prevents rust and makes removal easier. It goes without saying that I always use a torque wrench to ensure the nut is tightened to the proper specifications.

I hadn't seen this before, but just found it now in a Kohler manual....

"NOTE: Before installing flywheel, make sure crankshaft
taper and flywheel hub are clean, dry, and
completely free of any lubricants. Presence of
lubricants can cause flywheel to be over
stressed and damaged when screw is torqued to
specifications."

So factory wise my question is answered and thanks for those responses.
I never gave it any thought about that "stress" factor.

[dvogtvpe]

the tapper is what holds the flywheel from twisting. the key is just there for indexing since the timing marks are on it. so clean, dry surface is the way to go. those keys shear pretty easy. on our pullers we do Loctite them when we put them on. if you don't heat them they won't come off.
snowmobile clutch's just use the tapper. no key. they won't twist. they can put out some pretty good hp .