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#1
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Hi everyone,
In the process of replacing the front wheel bearings, I noticed that the spindles were in rough shape. Viewed from above they're not bad, but from below, where the weight is being carried on the spindle, you can tell that the tractor was run with bearings that were no good. It looks like some bearing races have carved significant gouges into the bottom part of the spindles. You can see the spindles are noticeably narrower where the bearing races have gouged them. As viewed from underneath. 2016-10-13 06 Spindle - Resized.jpg I'm sure there are a few machinists on this site, so I would like your opinion on this. It appears to me that this is a relatively easy fix for a machine shop. In my non-expert opinion, I think a new 3/4" shaft can be drilled and tapped for the bolt, and welded onto the steering knuckle assembly in place of the worn out spindle. What do you think? Who else has had to repair these spindles? I couldn't find much on this site about repairing the 3/4" spindles. Is there any reason I wouldn't take this to a machine shop to have it repaired? What other options are there? New steering knuckle assemblies are very expensive and I'm optimistic that this can be repaired for far less than replacement cost. |
#2
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Any good machine shop can repair them or you can contact member jeffinpa and send them but freight for you is expensive. Another option is to put an ad in the wanted section of this forum and get some good used ones. And yes you're right, new ones are really expensive.
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(2) Original, 100, 102, 124, 73, 800, #1 and #2 cart, brinly plows, disk, IH184, IH244, 1948 F Cub |
#3
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I have the material and skills to repair that but I will graciously refuse. Your money would be better spent finding another one up North. Just the return shipping would be between $25 and $40 plus the cost of the repair. It's not a rare or hard to find part. Another used one would be fine. Just get pictures so you know what you are getting. Jeff |
#4
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You must have a machinist around there. Bring the spindle in and ask his opinion on repairing them... I HAD mine welded/built up and ground down to close, then I finished them in the drill press with a rat-tail file and emery cloth, and sandpaper.
Or you could have the "axle" cut off and a new one made and welded back on, if you can't find a good used one. ![]()
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Make the best of each day , Todd ![]() Original's Face Lift thread.http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=34439 (O) Start to Finish video.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GAoUNNiLwKs Wheel Around videohttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XUL-m6Bramk They can't all be turn key! ![]() |
#5
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Just don't do what the PO did on my 1200....
I found one pretty easy and decent priced, but I'm not sure how hard parts would be to find up your way. As mentioned, I'd think any good machinist could fix that right up if a replacement is too hard to find.
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-Jason Cub Cadets: 1200 | 149 | 1650 | 122 | Z-Force S 54 Implements: QA42A | Push Blades | #2 Tiller | Rear Blade | 223A Utility Trailer | And a few mower decks Gravelys 5260 | CI Walk-behind (Project) And a couple of Subarus ![]() |
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