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#91
09-17-2016, 08:01 PM
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Update:
Kohler points set did the trick. Plenty of room to adjust the timing properly. Got the mule drive all put together, cleaned the rust off all the pulleys on it and the deck. Today was the first day I've actually been able to work the 1250 as it was meant to. It vibrates considerably because the mounts need replaced and the driveline attachments are probably worn, but I mowed for a solid 45 minutes and it did pretty well. Engine has decent power and the 44a's cut isn't bad either. Kind of amazing that it performed like it did with all of the neglect it's seen over the past two decades. Lots of little things that need attention that I'll be documenting as I fix, but for now I feel like it is strong enough to call it a functional tractor. The first issue I'm going to address is that the PTO clutch does not disengage anymore. Will remove and inspect bearings and air gap. 
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#94
09-18-2016, 12:31 PM
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Well the PTO was simple. There was a piece of bailing twine stuck inside the disk pressing it into the drive hub, which didn't allow disengagement. Took the assembly apart, cleaned and de-glazed the mating surfaces, reinstalled. Works great now.
Then this happened.
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#97
09-18-2016, 06:54 PM
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Took the mule drive shaft out and welded it back together, re-drilled the hole and reinstalled. Eventually it will need a new shaft since I didn't have a lathe to turn it down in, but it works for now. Or I guess I should say I *think* it will work for now because the ignition switch gave up the ghost so I can't test it.
Just one of those days. I'll catch up with yall later in the week. One part at a time!
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#100
09-24-2016, 02:19 PM
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Got started on the teardown today.
The ignition switch terminals were severely corroded, causing excessive resistance. You can see the area around the switch plug where the contacts had gotten warm and started to melt the plastic. Lots of rust under the foot rests. Trunnion area is worn, further indicating that this did not have 240 hours. I'd say the meter has come full circle at least once before. My ratchet was too tall to get between the axle and the front bolts for the engine, so I made a special tool  After fender pan and engine was removed, I finally got a good look at the "iso" mounts, driveshaft couplers, and hydro. The cradle had definitely contacted the frame at some points, there are grooves worn into it on both sides. Cradle itself has some pretty oblonged holes. Both rag joints look like they were forced out of alignment by worn self centering couplers on engine and hydro ends. I fought for an hour to get the ball bushing race removed from the hydro coupler. Terrible angle to work with there and I didn't have a proper punch. It's finished now and ready for reinstallation. Front coupler is worn too, so with both new ends and rag joints and proper engine mounts I expect this tractor to behave quite differently. Decided it was a good time to degrease and power wash. More pics to come as I start reassembly.
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.
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