About my "new" 125,....... - Page 3

johncub7172 · #21 09-08-2016, 09:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ol'George

If you find the cardboard gasket leaks, remove it and clean both surfaces with brake cleaner or Lacquer thinner.
They have to be oil free! then use your favorite silly cone sealant without a gasket.
Sparingly apply a thin coating to both surfaces with yer finger, button it up, and you are good to go.
A lot of fellows prefer that method to a factory gasket that sometimes leaks for various reasons

Thank you ol'George! I thought a little time and effort going into a pop box might work. I also made a gasket for the big square plate located on top of the transmission; behind the pump. That one looked like it was leaking, and the cap screws were loose.

johncub7172 · #22 09-08-2016, 10:08 AM

Thanks for the nice comments!

Yes, the 125 is fairly clean, and its not missing any part as of yet that I'm aware of. There is wear in the steering spindles, and I replaced the front axle pivot pin that was worn quit well. I then squeezed the frame's c-channel together, and it all tightened up nice.

I noticed the 125 was missing the shims that go between the back of the front rims and spindle, and tossed in a used set of those I had for the 3/4" diameter which also removed some play!

I was rather relieved on seeing the minimal wear on the drive hub. If I had to guess, the hub is worn around .030", at best. The drive pin was really worn, and knowing that its a solid, harden pin, I replaced that as well. I then sandblasted the drive line and fan, and painted it.

Allen, for me, the 125 can take a while to go through, top to bottom! Keeps me busy and at home, ha!

ACecil · #23 09-08-2016, 12:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by johncub7172

Thanks for the nice comments!

Yes, the 125 is fairly clean, and its not missing any part as of yet that I'm aware of. There is wear in the steering spindles, and I replaced the front axle pivot pin that was worn quit well. I then squeezed the frame's c-channel together, and it all tightened up nice.

I noticed the 125 was missing the shims that go between the back of the front rims and spindle, and tossed in a used set of those I had for the 3/4" diameter which also removed some play!

I was rather relieved on seeing the minimal wear on the drive hub. If I had to guess, the hub is worn around .030", at best. The drive pin was really worn, and knowing that its a solid, harden pin, I replaced that as well. I then sandblasted the drive line and fan, and painted it.

Allen, for me, the 125 can take a while to go through, top to bottom! Keeps me busy and at home, ha!

That's true, John!

johncub7172 · #24 09-10-2016, 10:14 PM

Before I got carried away with the tear down, I wanted to take pictures, as commonly advised. These next few pictures are represent the exact parts sequence in which they were removed.

IHCC 125 K301:

Muffler brace, secured by two head bolt studs, ie: nut and lock washer. The cap screw to the bottom left of the brace secures the muffler to the brace.

Here, are the three nuts, and three lock washers that secure the fuel tank support to the top of the head, above the head tin.

This was the picture after the muffler brace is removed. Note the tall, 3/8ths spacers.

Here is the top view, of the components left after removing the head tin.

Note: Under each of the 5 head bolt stud "long" spacers, is a nut and a thick, flat washer, and the head itself.

Now, I'm ready to clean and inspect all this hardware!

Jeff in Pa · #25 09-10-2016, 10:42 PM

I notice yours has the same crack in the heat shield as they all seem to develope. When I got my 122, it had what looked like a brand new one with the same crack. I just TIG welded mine.

johncub7172 · #26 09-10-2016, 10:45 PM

When I was first shown that this engine was "blown", I still wanted the model 125. The problem turned out to be a stuck exhaust valve. There must have been years worth of carbon build up. Also, the piston has some wear, in the area closest to the exhaust valve. The picture below shows this, as well as the clean top-half, and cleaned head gasket.

The 125 also came with a nice edition of the original Operator's Manual International Cub Cadet 72, 104, 105, 124, and 125 tractors, part # 1 082 659 R2.Rev.3. 1-69 .

Well, I took the aluminum head into work, and cleaned it up in the sandblaster. This was all I had to true it up. Took me two full sheets of 220 grit sand paper, but the head is now pretty well flat, thanks to the granite and time given!

johncub7172 · #27 09-10-2016, 11:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jeff in Pa

I notice yours has the same crack in the heat shield as they all seem to develope. When I got my 122, it had what looked like a brand new one with the same crack. I just TIG welded mine.

I'm not sure I see any cracks. Maybe something in the picture? There are no cracks in any of the engine tin that I have. took it all to work and sand blasted those too, and painted. Here is the biggest piece:

Jeff in Pa · #28 09-10-2016, 11:28 PM

The muffler heat shield tin

here's mine with the weld burn

DieselDoctor · #29 09-10-2016, 11:32 PM

You know, I've always had a problem finding a "safe" place to store my piece of glass plate used to true something by sanding, and also making sure it is supported well so I don't break it while pushing down on the part. You have solved that! I like the granite! I'm going to check the local dealer for a scrap piece. Nice write up on the head gasket removal!

johncub7172 · #30 09-10-2016, 11:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jeff in Pa

The muffler heat shield tin

here's mine with the weld burn

Oh, I'm sorry,

Mine could cracked,.... going to check that out in the morning. There still is much I have not got to. Thank you for pointing that out. I'll get it welded if it is cracked. I simply mis-understood you