Brought home a 149

[J-Mech]

Bearing and lock collar are two separate pieces.
No snap ring holding bearing on. Snap ring holds the bearing in the pulley (that you already removed).
Key is what the basket pulley is on, no key under the bearing.


Get a puller and pull the bearing off. I doubt it's stuck in the lock collar very tight. If it is, you may have to take a punch and spin the lock collar (that's how they lock). It should spin in opposite direction of engine rotation if it was locked correctly.

[vr4Legacy]

Thanks for the info J-Mech.

I assume I'll need to get the set screw loose on the collar first before I knock it loose?

I'm going to get a puller tomorrow and see what I can do.

Parts are ordered for the PTO rebuild, and I got a muffler shield and side panel/shields on the way too. Hopefully I can get the 149 buttoned up and running smooth this week.

Then all I need is a seat...

[Jeff in Pa]

Parts 17 & 18 make up the bearing assembly. 17 is the bearing itself and 18 is the eccentric locking collar. First the set screw has to be loose ( or out ) and then using a punch, drive the locking collar to take pressure off it.

It looks like a too long set screw was used so it's a 50/50 chance on which way to drive the locking collar to loosen it. ( sorry )

Then the bearing can be pulled off.

edit-- I type too slow, Jon covered it

[vr4Legacy]

Well, it aint pretty, but I got it off.

I tried using a puller and the bearing exploded on me. (not to self, wear safety goggles when using a puller)

I couldn't get the set screw loosened at all, and hitting the collar did nothing.

I have all new parts on the way, so I got out the dremel and cut away. I cut through everything on the slot for the key, so I didn't harm the shaft at all.

I also got the broken bolt out of the S/G mount with my easy-out. I've been really impressed (or lucky) with how well those things remove broken bolts.

If the weather holds out, I'm going to get the fenders back on and tap the tunnel screws for 1/4 bolts like my 1200.

Carb rebuild kit comes tomorrow, so I"ll probably get it off and ready. Also going to pull the gas tank and clean it and put new lines in.

[vr4Legacy]

Got the fenders back on and adjusted the brakes. I don't have much adjustment left in em, but they have some pad left and grab. I fired it up and it doesn't run below half throttle. It surges up and down on anything below full throttle.

I'm going to rebuild the carb and look into adjusting the governor. I'll take any tips on that.

[JLM78]

Go After the Carb first

[vr4Legacy]

Originally Posted by JLM78

Go After the Carb first

I think that was the issue.

I got it all cleaned up and rebuilt. The float had a tab broke to adjust the drop position, so it would go all the way down. I got a new one from my local Cub dealer. It fires right up and runs at low speed and revs up just fine. I also put in the new spark plug and ignition wire.

I still need to do the final adjustments on the carb, but I need to warm the engine up before I do them. That leads me to my next question.

My oil filler tube is loose, it rattles and oil leaks out of it when the engine runs, so I don't want to run it too long until that's fixed. I've attached pictures. There is a dent in the bottom of it, I'm not sure if that's supposed to be there or if I need to straighten that out. Does the filler tube just stay in with friction? Would it be ok to put a small bead of RTV to seal it in?

Also, the dipstick appears to be loose. What can I do to fix this?

Should I just look for a whole new tube and dipstick?

Also, do I need a tach to set the idle and top speed on the carb? If so, any suggestions on a cheap one?

[JLM78]

You may need to get a new cam cover. The idle screw the one thats On the side on the carb. Turn it in All the way And back it out 2 1/2 out. That what I do.

[vr4Legacy]

I adjusted the low idle screw to 2 1/2 and high idle to 3 1/4 per the service manual. I am going to follow the steps in the service manual, but it says to adjust the low idle speed to 1200 rpm.

How should I adjust the idle speed? Same for top speed, or does the governor limit that?

I've found a few inductive tachs for less than $15. They are meant for permanent mounting, but for the price i might pick one up. You just zip tie the lead to the ignition wire.

[JLM78]

Lot of guys use A Timing light to set The RPMs.