Iso mounts--solid or rubber.

[Zipper]

Originally Posted by J-Mech

It's necessary.

Thank you!

It was your comment about the 100 series having frame mounted engines that made me decide to go solid!!! I guess while the engine is out I will see if I have balance gears.

[Rescue11]

If a guy did the cradle mod, went to a cast oil pan, and installed solid mounts... would it be worth installing the Kirk engine balance weight?

Anyone else do this ?

[bocephus1991]

Do what you want, but I have solid mounts, done the cradle mod and have a solid 3pin driver and notice little vibration. Me, I wouldn't worry with the balancer.

[dodge trucker]

I worked on a 1200 for my buddy about 5-6 years ago, his mounts were beyond shot. I wound up putting a whole new drive shaft and clutch in that machine and I went at the time and bought a set of solid mounts figuring that the steel wont rot away like the rubber did.... it shook and shimmied so bad I could not stand it. so I took them right back out and went and bought a pair of front sway bar links for a car at the local parts store and used the rubbers from those.. They are a harder rubber than original and do shake a little at certain throttle settings but nowhere near as bad as when I had those steel ones in there.....i got the "better grade" urethane ones rather than the cheapie "OE grade" ones.

[Bob95065]

Originally Posted by Mortgaged

I sold a really nice 127 that I restored to get my 1450 and I now know that I made a big mistake with that decision. I'd take that 127 again in a big hurry and have already started looking for a winter project.

I'm on my 4th attempt over a 5 year period to fix the shakes on my 1450. What a pain in the behind! Like others, I've tried different mount styles but didn't really come across a major improvement. I tried a set of solid mounts but it really just changed the problem to different areas of the tractor at different rpm's. I'm undecided on whether I'd use them again, but it's a fairly easy swap out with the new style mounts (less than an hour).

My K321 has balance gears and I've tried with/without those as well and decided to leave those in place as there seem's to be marginal improvement.

I pulled the engine this past Saturday as I've gotten fed up with the shakes and think if I can get it to a reasonable level that it will be time to sell the tractor. I remember a saying or definition about stupidity where you keep dealing with the same thing over and over again and expecting a different result? I think this is the only fault with the QL's and apparently it's a widespread problem!

This time I will throw the book at it! Use braced engine cradle (thanks Patton Acres), new cub ISO Mounts, new flex couplings on both ends of driveshaft, Indicating driveshaft between centers and checking for straightness and replacing if needed, Red silicone or stove door insulation between the rattling sheet metal, replacing headlight assembly with machined aluminum plate (ever notice how much those lights bounce around?), blue loctite on cast iron oil pan, rubber hose on cross spring that holds side panels, split rubber hose on bars that hold hood at corrrect height, and ....

What am I missing?

I would love to replace the piano hinge to the hood with something a little tighter. After 31 years, it's a little loose and has to be a source of noise. Any ideas?

I read a post about lining the inside of the QL panels with a sound absorbing material but can't find it. Ring a bell with anyone?

Those flex couplings are poorly made and have to be very inaccurate based on the new ones I just received. I'm looking at a U joint option, but the cost is not justifiable so far. Plus it will require some machined parts to make it work. Any ideas?

Sorry to be so negative (realistic), I need to use my tractors as they need to justify their existence with swmbo. If you're comfortable with the amount of work required on your QL that's fine too! I've just decided to quit fighting with mine and find another vintage cub to play with. With that being said, when this tractor was operating "smoothly" it was great and I really like it. I agree that it's one of the best looking series cubs too.

Thanks for listening to my rant...

Did you check/replace the self-centering bushings in both couplings?

I have a 1450 that came to me as a basket case. I did the cradle nod, flipped the OEM bushings and put MOOG replacements in place up top and replaced the self-centering bushings. My 1450 doesn't shake.

[RV-ERR]

When I did my 1200 QL I used rubber mounts,3pin solid driver and rag joint from cub specialties and did the cradle mod, torqued the iso mount bolts to specs and now it truly is a QUIET LINE. CURT not a collector !!!!!

[twoton]

Originally Posted by Rescue11

... would it be worth installing the Kirk engine balance weight?

That’s a good question Rescue11. It seems like some of the Kohlers just have a vibration problem. . My 301 has the shakes so bad I’m ready to tear the whole thing down and start over. My 321 runs smooth as can be and my 341 just purrs like a kitten (did I ever tell you I hate cats?) Hard to see how a “bolt on kit” (from Kirk) would solve this. I think any good machinist could (or send out to be) balance the rotating assembly.