Iso mounts--solid or rubber.

[Hand_108]

Solid mounts. have them in my 1200. Just my $0.02

[cowdiddly]

When I first bought my QL cub it rattled like a can full of pea gravel. I would say 75% of it was the engine needed a good tune up, After a plug and points,setting the timing properly, a new coil adjusting the idle on the carb it ran lots smoother.
I then put some woodstove door gasket on that tin muffler box and shut it up for good. I put a light bead of red rtv under the front part of the hood under where it closes, covered it with wax paper and shut it--better yet.

Last The bottom mounts where somewhat squished so I moved all the tops to the bottom and then took some of those big automotive shock absorber bushings from monroe truck shocks (they are exactly the right thickness for the washer but larger in surface area) and put the metals in those for the tops and snugged them down until I had about a thread and a half showing.

I then ran around the yard in complete awe thinking the whole time why they call these Quietlines. Quiet as a mouse only tiny vibration a idle and smooth as silk at any other speed including WOT. Now the loudest thing on it is the hydro noise

Hope this helps- try the shock absorber bushing thingy if your a cheapskate like me, it works. I have not tried them on the bottom but will certainly try it next time.

I will fly to Africa and chop down a rubber tree before I give MTD 80 big ones for 4 sets that are nothing more that 2 fifty cent rubber bushings and a bolt and washers. I could care less if the current CEO has to walk instead of fly in his Lear jet... He won't be doing it on my dime.

"Son, money don't come with instructions" Grandpa

[Cub Cadet 123]

Wow, it is the great advice that I receive in this thread that makes me smile and reminds me how glad I am to be a member of this forum and how grateful I am to those responsible for providing this to everyone!!

In between raindrops today, I started my 1200 and ran it at WOT through low throttle (idle) both under load and without load and it just shook a little at middle throttle., but ran as smooth as silk at WOT and low throttle with and without load. It seemed to shake more the last time I mowed with it than it did today, but that doesn't make sense to me. I should check my deck for buildup and check my belts, but I will try to mow tomorrow (weather permitting) and see what is up with it.....

I hope this thread has helped others out as much as it has helped me. Thanks everyone for providing me with your advice and expertise as I know very little about the QL's.

Cub Cadet 123

[J-Mech]

Most everyone here is talking about their HYDROSTATIC drive QL's.

When I said it was hard on the driveline, I was referring to the GEAR drive QL's which is the one in question here in this thread. While I still think that the hydro unit's joints suffer from the engine moving around, it is not nearly as hard on them as it is the driver and the clutch in the gear drive.

[Mortgaged]

I sold a really nice 127 that I restored to get my 1450 and I now know that I made a big mistake with that decision. I'd take that 127 again in a big hurry and have already started looking for a winter project.

I'm on my 4th attempt over a 5 year period to fix the shakes on my 1450. What a pain in the behind! Like others, I've tried different mount styles but didn't really come across a major improvement. I tried a set of solid mounts but it really just changed the problem to different areas of the tractor at different rpm's. I'm undecided on whether I'd use them again, but it's a fairly easy swap out with the new style mounts (less than an hour).

My K321 has balance gears and I've tried with/without those as well and decided to leave those in place as there seem's to be marginal improvement.

I pulled the engine this past Saturday as I've gotten fed up with the shakes and think if I can get it to a reasonable level that it will be time to sell the tractor. I remember a saying or definition about stupidity where you keep dealing with the same thing over and over again and expecting a different result? I think this is the only fault with the QL's and apparently it's a widespread problem!

This time I will throw the book at it! Use braced engine cradle (thanks Patton Acres), new cub ISO Mounts, new flex couplings on both ends of driveshaft, Indicating driveshaft between centers and checking for straightness and replacing if needed, Red silicone or stove door insulation between the rattling sheet metal, replacing headlight assembly with machined aluminum plate (ever notice how much those lights bounce around?), blue loctite on cast iron oil pan, rubber hose on cross spring that holds side panels, split rubber hose on bars that hold hood at corrrect height, and ....

What am I missing?

I would love to replace the piano hinge to the hood with something a little tighter. After 31 years, it's a little loose and has to be a source of noise. Any ideas?

I read a post about lining the inside of the QL panels with a sound absorbing material but can't find it. Ring a bell with anyone?

Those flex couplings are poorly made and have to be very inaccurate based on the new ones I just received. I'm looking at a U joint option, but the cost is not justifiable so far. Plus it will require some machined parts to make it work. Any ideas?

Sorry to be so negative (realistic), I need to use my tractors as they need to justify their existence with swmbo. If you're comfortable with the amount of work required on your QL that's fine too! I've just decided to quit fighting with mine and find another vintage cub to play with. With that being said, when this tractor was operating "smoothly" it was great and I really like it. I agree that it's one of the best looking series cubs too.

Thanks for listening to my rant...

[twoton]

Mortgaged,

Hood hinge tighten up;

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...&postcount=166

good luck.

[tpelle]

Just my $0.02 worth, but I vote for the solid mounts. I just rebuilt by 1000 with the good engine from an otherwise trashed 1200, and used Jeff's solid mounts with the clutch driver from a 108. The tractor has never run better!

Yes, there is some vibration but it's not intolerable. All I use this tractor for now is pulling a wagon around the yard and occasionally pushing snow and gravel with the front mount grader blade. Maybe if I were sitting on it for an hour or so at a time each week all through the summer I'd have a different opinion.

Over the years of running this 1000 and the now-deceased 1200 I've had several of those flex-driver discs shred themselves. This is all due to the iso mounts allowing vibration that flexed the driver disc until it fatigued. I'm hoping that this will be a low maintenance setup that will last a long time.

[Cub Cadet 123]

I think I will go with the solid mounts, too. I am out of time and my engine uses oil. Spoke with a local business that said he could rebuild it this fall or winter, so that is when I will make the change over. Oddly enough, I have not noticed any further vibration. Thanks for everyone's input and advice.

Cub Cadet 123

[Zipper]

Originally Posted by DeltaCub

Jeff is the cradle mod necessary with the solid mounts?

I know this is a older post but this was never really answered. I am now thinking or going with solid mounts since I have the 12hp. If I need to do the cradle it will delay me dropping the engine back in by a few days to get the cradle welded up by my friend. Not a big deal but if it is not needed...

[J-Mech]

It's necessary.