1450 Hydro Leak and hydro question

[Mike1450]

Another spot for a leak that is most often overlooked is the end cap on the rearend under the hydro. My 1450 hand a leak which I was sure was the cork gasket which I replace and then a few days later oil was leaking and really looked like it was coming from the gasket. SO took it all a part again and found the gasket was good. I looked really close at the end cap and found it rusted around the edge and created a very small leak. Popped out the old one and replace it after cleaning the edges in the rearend , never leaked again!

Worth checking while its apart.

[FLETCH14519]

So I'm still waiting on my order from www.cubcalssics.com for the new gasket, trans oil filter, and all. They are slow at shipping and sent an email to them 2 days ago with no response....but anyway

I was looking at my Trunion bracket where the springs sit inside that square, and saw very small notches in the square, and there is play (side to side movement) in the springs where they sit in the square. I saw pictures of notches being a lot more worn than what I have but they are there. What is the procedure on fixes this? (Alittle back ground, I just started working and using this mower 6 months ago. This used to be my grand fathers tractor until he passed). So I'm kinda slowly getting into the mix of things here.

[teejk]

Originally Posted by FLETCH14519

So I'm still waiting on my order from www.cubcalssics.com for the new gasket, trans oil filter, and all. They are slow at shipping and sent an email to them 2 days ago with no response....but anyway

I was looking at my Trunion bracket where the springs sit inside that square, and saw very small notches in the square, and there is play (side to side movement) in the springs where they sit in the square. I saw pictures of notches being a lot more worn than what I have but they are there. What is the procedure on fixes this? (Alittle back ground, I just started working and using this mower 6 months ago. This used to be my grand fathers tractor until he passed). So I'm kinda slowly getting into the mix of things here.

I didn't know squat about that trunion wear thing either until recently when I asked. But I see know how it happens. The spring has hardened stainless steel button retainers on each end. They are harder than anything around them so with time they will grind into the trunion bracket mounted on your pump. That will create those notches on the bracket. In my case the grooves allowed the buttons to extend out and start wearing on the damper plate assembly. I bought my 1250 back in 1983...was used for cemetery mowing I think and "rode hard and put away wet". If your grooves are not bad then up to you I guess. If you want to do preventative maintenance then the dimensions of the Xtreme repair part would look to be a piece of 3/16" HARD stock (key stock I guess)...outside dimensions 1 11/16" x 1 3/16". Inside dimensions 1 3/16"x3/4". Looking at it I think it would require a good plasma or laser cutter to replicate.

[FLETCH14519]

Originally Posted by teejk

I didn't know squat about that trunion wear thing either until recently when I asked. But I see know how it happens. The spring has hardened stainless steel button retainers on each end. They are harder than anything around them so with time they will grind into the trunion bracket mounted on your pump. That will create those notches on the bracket. In my case the grooves allowed the buttons to extend out and start wearing on the damper plate assembly. I bought my 1250 back in 1983...was used for cemetery mowing I think and "rode hard and put away wet". If your grooves are not bad then up to you I guess. If you want to do preventative maintenance then the dimensions of the Xtreme repair part would look to be a piece of 3/16" HARD stock (key stock I guess)...outside dimensions 1 11/16" x 1 3/16". Inside dimensions 1 3/16"x3/4". Looking at it I think it would require a good plasma or laser cutter to replicate.

So the repair pretty much is to cut the old retainer out and install a new one by welding it on I assume

[teejk]

Originally Posted by FLETCH14519

So the repair pretty much is to cut the old retainer out and install a new one by welding it on I assume

NO! Far as a can tell you want to retain the existing trunion bracket and weld the repair on top of it. If you look at the trunion bracket it is curved shaped spring steel and even with my limited knowledge I don't think any weld would survive if you removed any part of that base. I think CC calls it their "shaft tron" (SU-3103181P) and they want $263.54 for a new one (which will require you to crack the case so add additional costs to that). I was wondering about adding the repairs to top and bottom but I'll start with the top and see what happens. I got new springs (932-3013 and 932-3012) and buttons (911-3033) (latter probably a waste of money but since I have it torn down want to avoid having to do it again).

[ironman]

Info on trunion repair here....

http://cubfaq.com/trunionrepair.html