Mowing Deck Problem - Front Belt not moving

[ethanre]

I come bearing photos!

not sure how to enter photos here

here are links to the pictures

1- there is no gap even when the lever is in the 'on' position (pushed forward)
http://onlycubcadets.net/forum/attac...1&d=1468691002

2- i pushed the lever forward even more / beyond the normal range in order to create a gap - here's how far it is pushed
http://onlycubcadets.net/forum/attac...1&d=1468691095

3- now i have a gap
http://onlycubcadets.net/forum/attac...1&d=1468691158

The mower deck did "not" start, move or engage at all

4- another shot of the front wheel / gear
http://onlycubcadets.net/forum/attac...1&d=1468691188

So, it doesntengage with, or without a gap

What should I try next?

[J-Mech]

Time to rebuild it, or buy a rebuilt. Mark Hellrung (sponsor above in yellow) has rebuilt units. Or you can rebuild it yourself. That thing has had fingers on it that didn't know what they were doing before you got it.

[Alvy]

Yeah now that you showed some up close ones spring is on backwards, fingers bent and look to be ground down, thrust button is gone, time to do as stated above. I would say make sure to get out all 6 set screws as there should be two in each hole, the lower ones are pointed but judging by the looks of the last assembler there might not be any

[ironman]

Originally Posted by ethanre

So, it doesntengage with, or without a gap

What should I try next?

You didn't listen to Alvy's advice in his post #7.
You NEED to go and look at the drawings so that you understand what you have (and don't have).

The clutch engages when you move the lever forward and create the gap.
However you have (at least) parts numbers 7 and 8 missing in your pictures so the gap is irrelevant until you get things right.

Also, you need to go here to the chassis service manual, pages 2-41 to 2-45.

http://ccmanuals.info/pdf/1x2-3%20Service%20Manual.pdf

Once more.... http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=9

[darkminion_17]

I just have to add,the deck does spin by hand with the pto disengaged?
That pto needs a rebuild,and a few parts as mentioned by Alvy.

[Gregory]

Yes, I'd recommend rebuilding it also. Kit's are available, but the challenge is getting it off. I'd suggest, and I've done this successfully, with the following procedure to remove the PTO from the crank. The design is very well thought out.
I use Kroil but any penetrating oil with work, plus have three allen wrenches the same size. One per each hole. This is important for you DO NOT want to round the allen socket in the set screw. Please don't ask me how I know this. There are three holes in the PTO which contain retaining set screws. There are two set screws per hole. I put oil in each hole until full. Insert allen wrench and tap with a small hammer to break loose. The set screws hold the PTO to a bearing on the crank. Without all 6 screws remove, the PTO will not come off easily.
In taking the PTO apart and rebuilding, I reamed out the allen set screw threads and used Never-sieze compound to ensure when I have to do this again, it will be easier.

[J-Mech]

You reamed out the threads??? I certainly hope not. I hope you used a tap and CLEANED out the threads. If you reamed them, there are no threads now.

[Gregory]

Sorry J-Mech, used wrong choice of words.....My bad.... Correct I used a tap to clean the threads......don't know what I was thinking.

[DoubleO7]

Since that pto has been off sometime prior to now, there may be or not two set screws per hole.
But do as Gregory suggested, but first use compressed air and while looking away blast those holes good to blow out anything in them like dirt and mud wasps. Then fill the three holes with kroil or 50/50 ATF and acetone, two at a time once a day for a week!.

I like to use the grinder on the allen wrench to put a good sharp, square end on the business end of wrench.

The question of how many set screws inside.........
Does anyone have a "standard" depth measurement from top of hole down to set screw(s) on the narrow frame pto?