Brought home a 149 - Page 5

Jeff in Pa · #41 07-16-2016, 10:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vr4Legacy

Alrighty. I was about to try that, but didn't want to mess anything up. Now that i have your blessing, I crank er down

Just keep it straight as you "smash it in place"

vr4Legacy · #42 07-18-2016, 09:24 PM

I went to a local auto parts / machine shop and picked up a fitting for my hydraulic lift. For a whopping $2, I got the hard line in. For reference if anybody needs it's Gates G60301-0606. Looks like it's available for prime shipping via Amazon too. I've never been to this particular shop. Nice guys and pretty reputable in town. If/When an engine rebuild comes around, I think I may have a place to take it.

Next up, now that I have the hood/grill off and the PTO out, I might as well degunk the front of the tractor. I need to pull the trigger on the PTO rebuild parts too. But I might let that wait a little bit. It depends on how my 1200 does once I get the new driveshaft in. I'm going to get the fenders back on and the wiring hooked up on the 149. Then replace the plug, plug wire, fuel lines and air filter. Then run it a little and change the oil. Hopefully I can get it idling well. If not a carb rebuild is probably in the future. I want to make sure it's running well before I drop the money on the PTO. These $5 and $10 repairs add up quick...

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jeff in Pa

Just keep it straight as you "smash it in place"

I tried on my bench vise, but I couldn't get it all the way. Of course my vise is just sitting on my bench... it might help if I bolt it down first

Jeff in Pa · #43 07-18-2016, 09:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vr4Legacy

I tried on my bench vise, but I couldn't get it all the way. Of course my vise is just sitting on my bench... it might help if I bolt it down first

Put a thick washer on the back side of the arm as the button stem is slightly longer than the arm is thick.

( after you bolt down the vise

)

vr4Legacy · #44 08-11-2016, 11:17 AM

I'm going to pull the trigger on the PTO rebuild. I have a week off work next week and I'm going to try and button up the 149.

Here is what I have on the list
From CubCadet.com
1 - 759-3489 - P.T.O. Clutch and Brake Kit
3 - IH-473478-R2 - Throw Out Lever

Aftermarket
1 - IH-60071-C91 BEARING & L/COLLAR
I'm looking at this one
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bearing-with...ZvK3sU97kmFqvg

The bolts look good and I have all the nuts and set screws for the pully.

Should I get a new snap ring? I haven't removed it yet, but will tonight. I assume if it feels tight and doesn't snap it's god to reuse?

P/N IH-473475-R1 Ring, Snap 2.197 O.D., for Pulley

How about the springs that go on the bolts

P/N IH-27452-D Spring, Compression

Anything else I should replace in regards to the PTO?

I already have a new thrust and wear button.

JLM78 · #45 08-11-2016, 03:22 PM

Make sure The three fingers are in good shape . I put new set screws in to . I have never replace the snap ring . Are the springs in good shape ?

vr4Legacy · #46 08-11-2016, 09:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JLM78

Make sure The three fingers are in good shape . I put new set screws in to . I have never replace the snap ring . Are the springs in good shape ?

I am ordering 3 new throw out levers. One is cracked and the other two are in fair shape.

The springs look good and appear to have plenty of "spring" left in them.

Any reason in particular to put new set screws? The ones I took out were all in good shape and they didn't strip while removing them. I have all 6.

Jeff in Pa · #47 08-11-2016, 10:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vr4Legacy

I am ordering 3 new throw out levers. One is cracked and the other two are in fair shape.

The springs look good and appear to have plenty of "spring" left in them.

Any reason in particular to put new set screws? The ones I took out were all in good shape and they didn't strip while removing them. I have all 6.

IF the set screws fit a brand new allen wrench tightly, then they would be OK to reuse. Any slop at all I would suggest replacing them with new ones.

If they strip when removing, you will be using the universal adjective in various creative forms

JLM78 · #48 08-11-2016, 11:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vr4Legacy

I am ordering 3 new throw out levers. One is cracked and the other two are in fair shape.

The springs look good and appear to have plenty of "spring" left in them.

Any reason in particular to put new set screws? The ones I took out were all in good shape and they didn't strip while removing them. I have all 6.

you don't that just what I do . Anti seize is good to .

vr4Legacy · #49 08-12-2016, 03:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jeff in Pa

IF the set screws fit a brand new allen wrench tightly, then they would be OK to reuse. Any slop at all I would suggest replacing them with new ones.

If they strip when removing, you will be using the universal adjective in various creative forms

I was pleseantly surprised I didn't need to do that when I removed them. They all broke loose relatively easy. I'll double check them all, but I'm pretty sure they all fit nice and snug on my allen wrenches.

I'll also put a dab of antisieze on them.

vr4Legacy · #50 08-13-2016, 03:44 PM

I tried to remove the bearing and ran into an issue. The set screw on the bearing is messed up. Should it take an allen wrench? Suggestions on how to get it off. I can't get a good grip with pliers or vice grips.

I'm thinking maybe cut a slot in it and try a screw driver.

Also, is there a snap ring that holds the bearing on? Looking at the parts diagram (#16), which is clear as mud, it shows one in front of the bearing. I don't see one on the bearing. It looks like there may be some sort of key on it.

Does the bearing come off separate from the collar? Or are they one piece?

Finally, the PTO basket only has one set screw, but it looks like it should have 2. Any input on that?