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  #41  
Old 05-29-2016, 03:19 PM
Bob95065 Bob95065 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vr4Legacy View Post
Put a new lock nut on and everything went great. Until.... it just stopped moving. Apparently the roll pin came out of the back of the driveshaft... lesson learned. Don't re-use roll pins. I foolishly reused it when I replaced the drive train. At least it was an easy fix.
This spring I put a clutch in my 1000. I bought new sproil pins from McMaster-Carr. I had a big order so shipping wasn't bad but for small orders shipping can be expensive. I usually go in with some friends on a big order when I need something. I have a running list going all the time.
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  #42  
Old 05-29-2016, 09:07 PM
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vr4Legacy vr4Legacy is offline
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Harbor Freight had a mixed assortment of them. There was one the right size in there. I've had good luck with simple tools / pieces at HF. I'm sure it will do just fine.

But, when I do a proper rebuild, I'll likely order some higher quality parts.
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-Jason

Cub Cadets: 1200 | 149 | 1650 | 122 | Z-Force S 54
Implements: QA42A | Push Blades | #2 Tiller | Rear Blade | 223A Utility Trailer | And a few mower decks
Gravelys 5260 | CI Walk-behind (Project)
And a couple of Subarus
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  #43  
Old 05-30-2016, 12:21 AM
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bocephus1991 bocephus1991 is offline
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Those pins from hf are just roll pins you know? The driveshaft uses a spiral pin that it like a roll pin, but stronger. It is steel wound all the way to the center and are what's supposed to be in the driveshaft. Those roll pins are likely to break or fall out.
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Brian

April 1979 1200 Quietline 44A deck 1988 1211 customized into a 1288 with a K301AQS 38C deck and a 1864 54” deck . Snow blades 42" and 54" . Brinly disk, brinly plow a cultivator and a $5 brinly yard rake!
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  #44  
Old 05-30-2016, 06:21 AM
twoton twoton is offline
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Jason,

Could be the hole in the trans input yoke is all wallered out and the pin is now to small. You should have to drive that spirol pin in with a hammer and it should be quite snug, interference fit or something like that. Maybe Jeff in PA or one of the other machinist here could chime in with what diameter the hole should be in the drive shaft, trans yoke for the pin to fit right. And remember to support the drive shaft with a jack stand before you start hammering that pin in, don't want to damage the trans input bearing.

David
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  #45  
Old 05-30-2016, 02:14 PM
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vr4Legacy vr4Legacy is offline
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thanks for the input guys. I didn't realize there was a difference in pins. I'm all but certain there was just a roll pin in there when I pulled the old driveshaft. But that doesn't mean the PO put the right part in there.

According to the Cub Cadet part finder, it's 1/4 x 1.5 spiral pin. The 1/4 roll pin I put in was snug when I drove it in. I'll keep an eye on it and if it starts working it's way out I'll get a spiral pin.

It looks like I"ll have a backup tractor now, I'm getting a 149... so it begins.
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Cub Cadets: 1200 | 149 | 1650 | 122 | Z-Force S 54
Implements: QA42A | Push Blades | #2 Tiller | Rear Blade | 223A Utility Trailer | And a few mower decks
Gravelys 5260 | CI Walk-behind (Project)
And a couple of Subarus
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