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#21
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I'am not going to argue with you, Matt. Its says right there...fuel tanks. JB Weld is still good stuff, though. I was carefull not to over-tighten the sediment bowl....and it did last a while. See, its only this small nipple where its leaking. So, tommrow I'am gonna melt some solder over this square and hope for the best. It is always fun to set these tanks! Just hannging out this afternoon!
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#22
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Hey Everyone,
I have a very simple way to break the bead on a tire that does not require any tools. I used to be into racing and riding 4-wheelers and many times we would get flats out on the trails many miles from anywhere. Remove the wheel and set it flat on the ground behind your rear car or truck tire. Have only the portion of your tire, you are trying to break the bead, aligned with the tire on your car and slowly back over the tire with your car/truck tire. This pulls the tractor tire downward and breaks the bead easily without any tools. You may have to do this several time depending upon how rusted the rim has gotten over the years. I did two front and rear wheels the other week. People in the off-road community have been doing this for years even on off-road truck tires. :biggrin2.gif: |
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#23
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not a repair but i have seen this done and worked real slick, there was a tractor trailer set up that slid off the road in the winter and was suck but good, he gets his buddy to come down driving an empty coal bucket has 2 sets of chains and an old 15 inch tire, hooks up the chains to each rig and puts the tire in the middle as a shock absorber. he has about 20 foot of slack in the chain and drops the hammer, when every thing tightens up that tractor trailer pops right out of the ditch and no damage to anything
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#24
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When I got my 100, the center of the steering wheel was busted and had been glued back together with some of the pieces missing. I used a hacksaw blade to cut the plastic coating near the rim of the wheel and then busted the plastic off the spokes and painted it. It's not perfect but it looks much better than it did. I still need to get an acorn nut for it.
__________________
Adam 1964 Model 100 w/ K301 12hp and custom hydraulics 1972 Model 149 turned 129 w/ K301 12hp, triple hydraulics, 66 series clone |
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#25
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Not exactly a repair... but just a repair method.
Many years ago I had to replace a clutch throw-out bearing on my 128, but it was a Sunday afternoon and I had no access to a proper spring compressor. After a minute of thought, I took a couple of 16 inch long (or thereabouts) 2x4's, and drilled centered deep holes (slightly larger than the engine shaft) length-wise using drill press and spade bits. I then put the shaft + spring + other parts + 2x4's between two car bumpers and s-l-o-w-l-y inched one car ahead ahead until my #1 son gave me the "high sign" that the spring was compressed enough to tap in the roll pin to hold the spring compressed. It was a long time ago; I may have left out some important detail. Old farmer wisdom was put to use that day. Goony |
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#26
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Quote:
__________________
'72 108 w/ 38" HIGH speed deck, '77 1200QL w/ homemade grader blade, '79 1450 44" grass tamer, '70 sears super 12 w/ 3pt , 19?? 100 w/ extra toys, 69' economy powerking 14 horse w/ FEL, 65' economy powerking w/ toys, 1982 allis chalmers 716 Jeff |
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#27
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I was carefull about the heat as Y.Sam warned. I cant say I ever done this on a cub before,yet alone any soldering, but I have repaired alot of stain glass windows w/ lead frames. I just filled in all around the square. No leaks when I water tested it, but that dont mean nothing. New oil lamp wick between the saddel and tank. Made a gasket from a piece of scrap. Scratched up the lead paint on the tank and re-painted with what red I had because I had no Federal Yellow in a spray can. Cleaned out the sediment bowl. I was wondering what the hole at 12 o'clock was on the Carter carb. I made a hole for it in the gasket, then realized there was not one on the air cleaner mount.......ughhh!! O-yea, I didnot heat out the solder seal, just filled it in. I tryed my best not to over tighten the sediment bowl to the tank, and the 90 fuel elbow. Do any of you ues teflon tape around the fuel tank nipple?
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#28
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Call me crazy, I don't care.
I make it a practice to NEVER use teflon tape on ANY fuel related parts. I don't know for sure but it is my belief that petroleum based products will break down teflon tape turning it into a sticky goo that can get in and clog... places that you don't want clogged. Nice looking work johncub7172. |
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#29
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Thanks Y.Sam! Just hunted down a miss-spelled thread on this matter, which you had shared alot of info. as well as others. I amazed myself on making the gasket. Got to penciling around trying to make lines to follow. Looked over on the work bench was a small tube of electric grease in one of those needel-type tubes. Smeared very little on the carb. ,stuck the gasket to it, and a darn-near carbon copie of what I needed to do! So then, heres how I trimmed the hole out. Then useing my drill index, 5/32" hole and drill bit, put the gasket on wood and drilled out a near-perfect hole for the mounting bolts!
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#30
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Quote:
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/GEN...unch-Set-3ZG93 http://www.harborfreight.com/9-piece...-set-3838.html Great job!:biggrin2.gif: Jeff (teet)
__________________
CCC 1211 71 127 ![]() 102 122 1962 Original |
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