Cub Cadet 71 transmission problems

[johns cubs]

I won't own a cub without a removable tunnel cover, if I ever do get a nf I will make it removable.[/QUOTE]

I second that! This spring I am going to buy a new driveshaft from jeff, and I plan to mod the tunnel cover in my 124. But it will be done right so I can bolt it back on without weakening the tunnel.

[J-Mech]

Just as a note to you guys who want to cut the tunnel on your NF's. The frame on those older machines is a lot more rigid with that tunnel welded in place like it is. For the 3 times in the machines life that you need access inside, IMHO, it's not worth it. I'm fairly convinced that the reason that the old NF tractors rear end bolts never come loose is because the frame is so much more rigid. Just my You guys can do whatever you want to your machines.

[john hall]

Originally Posted by J-Mech

Just as a note to you guys who want to cut the tunnel on your NF's. The frame on those older machines is a lot more rigid with that tunnel welded in place like it is. For the 3 times in the machines life that you need access inside, IMHO, it's not worth it. I'm fairly convinced that the reason that the old NF tractors rear end bolts never come loose is because the frame is so much more rigid. Just my You guys can do whatever you want to your machines.

I wonder were there any frame changes to compensate for the loss of rigidity when they redesigned for a removable cover? Other than Cadets with alum rears, never personally knew of a cast rear to work loose in any machine.

Regarding mechanics input into a design change, one of my dad's favorite expressions was "They ought to have a some funerals in the engineering dept".

[Yosemite Sam]

Originally Posted by john hall

I wonder were there any frame changes to compensate for the loss of rigidity when they redesigned for a removable cover? Other than Cadets with alum rears, never personally knew of a cast rear to work loose in any machine.

Regarding mechanics input into a design change, one of my dad's favorite expressions was "They ought to have a some funerals in the engineering dept".

Once the trans-axle and sheet metal has been removed, the stern end of the Wide Frame models really is pretty flimsy (compared to the Narrow Frames).

I have learned to check the bolts holding the frames to the trans-axles on new to me Cubs (especially on Wife Frame models) I've gotten many with loose bolts and number of those have had a bolt broken off or missing.

[cubby102]

Originally Posted by J-Mech

Just as a note to you guys who want to cut the tunnel on your NF's. The frame on those older machines is a lot more rigid with that tunnel welded in place like it is. For the 3 times in the machines life that you need access inside, IMHO, it's not worth it. I'm fairly convinced that the reason that the old NF tractors rear end bolts never come loose is because the frame is so much more rigid. Just my You guys can do whatever you want to your machines.

I agree with this... bavk in the timber pulling out firewood with mine I've noticed alot less flex with the narrow frame

As far as pulling the pin for the driveshaft it can be accessed through one of the creeper holes fairly easy....I can pull the rear out of a narrow frame just about as fast as a wide frame....

[dvogtvpe]

NF are much more rigid than a WF. years ago we spent time measuring twist of the frames to see how much you could go before driveline binding started. . I've done the removable tunnel before then just bolt it on. now to the rearend, take it out. you aren't going to fix much once you torch to remove the shifter . you can look and maybe see whats wrong. but in most case's to repair it has to come out anyway