Thank you FrankF3 for helping me find my new (to me) 1772! - Page 4

FrankF3 · #31 10-27-2015, 12:24 PM

Did some more digging here is a spec sheet for NGK glow plugs.

Glow Plug.jpg

MWShaw · #32 10-27-2015, 08:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FrankF3

Did some more digging here is a spec sheet for NGK glow plugs.

Attachment 69397

Awesome, Thank you!

MWShaw · #33 10-27-2015, 08:44 PM

Today's parts haul;

As I have said before, mine would not crank using the key. Some of the reading I had done here, indicated a faulty ignition switch.
$25.00 at the local Kubota dealer.

Problem is, after installing it, the engine still would not crank using the key?

So I did some wire chasing with the volt ohm meter. That lead me to this relay;

A quick trip to the parts store, I installed the new one, viola! It cranks with the key.

Then I mounted this;

on the air cleaner bracket.

Ran some 8 gauge wire, just have to finish running the couple wires.

I went ahead and installed these;

Still need to deal with the high idle.

Pretty productive day. Won't be long and I'll be mowing with it.

I appreciate all of the help, you guys have been invaluable, in getting this far.

FrankF3 · #34 10-27-2015, 11:34 PM

High - idle? I had that on my 1772 when I got it. I disconnected the throttle cable at the injector pump, then started it to see if I could get a normal idle. I had a couple things wrong with it but mainly the cable was mis-adjusted in the clamp at the injector.

MWShaw · #35 10-28-2015, 06:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FrankF3

The most of the 1772s (depecds on serial number) don't have the heating coil indicator like the 782Ds, 882s, 1512s,1572s. They use an indicator light bulb (just like the oil indicator light) that's driven off of a Kubota solid state timer. The ignition switch has a jumper across the contacts where the old heating coil indicator used to connect to and supplies 12V to the glow plugs. This comes as a good reminder for me to finish up the 1772 schematic I've got partially done that includes the timer and light bulb circuitry that Cub Cadet left off. I only have 1 or 2 more connections to trace off of the ignition switch.

Okay, I could be mistaken, but I checked the voltage at my glow plugs with the key in the left position. I got 9v at all (3) plugs. That corresponded with what I had read, that they did not get a full 12v. I thought the 9v could be one of the reasons it did not like to start.

I installed the new ignition switch (because the tractor would not crank, had to jump the solenoid to start it) then the new glow plugs, retested the voltage at the glow plugs. Guess what, they showed 12v? Sooooooo I either messed up my first readings, or something about the new glow plugs / ignition switch enable higher voltage at the glow plugs.

No change to my dash board light, still lights up, while holding the key to the left.

I still plan to complete the glow plug relay install, because it just makes more sense, to load the glow plugs off of the battery / relay versus the ignition switch.

Quote:

Originally Posted by FrankF3

I just checked online. It looks like the 782D, 882, 1512 and 1572 all use the same glow plug - KB-15951-65512. The 1772 and 1882 (isn't there 1 more?) both use a KB-15694-65512 glow plug which is different from the other series. I tried to look up the specs for each to find what each are rated for with voltage, but have not come up with anything yet.

PS - I just found an NGK catalog online that includes glowplugs according to it...

782D, 882, 1512 and 1572 = KB-15951-65512 = NGK Y-103V

1772, 1882 = KB-15694-65512 = NGK Y-702R

I'm not fully up on glow plugs so maybe someone can chime in on them.

Yikes! I put the Y-103V in mine? Hopefully thats not going to cause a problem.

Quote:

Originally Posted by FrankF3

High - idle? I had that on my 1772 when I got it. I disconnected the throttle cable at the injector pump, then started it to see if I could get a normal idle. I had a couple things wrong with it but mainly the cable was mis-adjusted in the clamp at the injector.

I was messing with that last night, my throttle lever has too much play in it, not sure if that is related to it being retrofitted with the separate shut off knob? But definitely more work to do there.

MWShaw · #36 10-28-2015, 06:19 AM

As a side note, I went to my local New Holland / Kubota dealer to get the switch and glow plugs.

The parts counter guy was an older gentleman. He wanted to know what Kubota tractor I was working on, he was very dubious that I just walked in with part number for individual parts.

I told him I was working on a Cub Cadet with a Kubota motor in it. he went on and on about how Cub Cadet never put a Kubota motor in a garden tractor!

Once I convinced him it was a real thing, he says well that thing will run forever! Those little engines go for thousands and thousands of hours!

Funny interaction.

sbauerz28 · #37 10-28-2015, 07:12 AM

Both the Y-103V or the Y-702R glow plug will work. Below is some info I gathered from both the NGK website and pricing is from Amazon. As you can see, like everything else you get what you pay for.

Y-103V - Heats to 800° C in 15-17 sec. $8.39 ea
Y-702R - Heats to 900° C in approx. 6 sec. $21.34 ea

Oak · #38 10-28-2015, 08:24 AM

I run the Y-103V's in all of my machines along with the solenoid upgrade.

FrankF3 · #39 10-28-2015, 09:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sbauerz28

Both the Y-103V or the Y-702R glow plug will work. Below is some info I gathered from both the NGK website and pricing is from Amazon. As you can see, like everything else you get what you pay for.

Y-103V - Heats to 800° C in 15-17 sec. $8.39 ea
Y-702R - Heats to 900° C in approx. 6 sec. $21.34 ea

According to the spec sheet. The Y-702R unit is of a "double-coil" design.

FrankF3 · #40 10-28-2015, 09:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MWShaw

Okay, I could be mistaken, but I checked the voltage at my glow plugs with the key in the left position. I got 9v at all (3) plugs. That corresponded with what I had read, that they did not get a full 12v. I thought the 9v could be one of the reasons it did not like to start.

I installed the new ignition switch (because the tractor would not crank, had to jump the solenoid to start it) then the new glow plugs, retested the voltage at the glow plugs. Guess what, they showed 12v? Sooooooo I either messed up my first readings, or something about the new glow plugs / ignition switch enable higher voltage at the glow plugs.

No change to my dash board light, still lights up, while holding the key to the left.

I still plan to complete the glow plug relay install, because it just makes more sense, to load the glow plugs off of the battery / relay versus the ignition switch.

Yikes! I put the Y-103V in mine? Hopefully thats not going to cause a problem.

I was messing with that last night, my throttle lever has too much play in it, not sure if that is related to it being retrofitted with the separate shut off knob? But definitely more work to do there.

The throttle lever does have play in it at the bottom end. The lever is sort of a 2 stage design and has a cam and a second lever behind the dash. As you lower the throttle speed, the speed section bottoms out then the shut-off comes into play for the rest of the travel until it reaches the bottom of the slot. You may be interpreting play at the bottom of the range, where the shut off/down area used to be and is now controlled by the second knob you have with the red button.