Axle Pivot Pin on 127

[CadenceWildBeast]

Ok guys, Now I know that there are alot of threads on here that talk about how to fix a loose pivot pin, but I believe mine is a bit different. Upon taking the 127 down to bare frame I noticed that the rear C-Channel is completely wollered out and has been been "fixed" b4. The previous owner has taken and removed the Boss on the back side of the C channel and bolted a triangular plate shaped to match the outline of the C-Channel and use that to re support the pin. Now that im guessing was just mild steel so as you can guess is destroyed now too. I know its probably hard to in vision without pics. I will try to get some tonight. Now im stuck with trying to figure out how to fix this. My first thought was i have a 1250 frame that is junk and was thinking if i can cut the C-Channel off that frame and re weld it in place of mine because it is in near perfect shape. Was left to rot 20 years ago and has almost no issues in the axle that i can see. Now being off a wide frame im guessing that it will be wider that what i need, but other than cutting it down would there be any other differences? How hard would it be to do this, or is there a better way of going about this?? Thanks Nathan

[Yosemite Sam]

I'm not saying that I think your idea is a bad one, just that it would be a PITA, especially given that the quick attach brackets are also welded to the axle saddle.

Since there are a good many members on OCC from Indiana, and there are A LOT of Cubs in Indiana, I would think it would be worth your time to put an ad in the "wanted" section for a whole frame for your 127.

Surely someone here, within driving distance from you, has one in a scrap pile somewhere that they would be willing to part with for a reasonable price.

I'm thinking that if I went out and rooted around a little that I could find a good 1X6/7 frame or maybe two here (if I haven't cut them up already) that I would give to a fellow Cubber who was in need, just because not everything is about making a buck.

Good Luck in whatever you decide.

[CadenceWildBeast]

Yeah im Sure that it would be but other that scrap the frame i don't see many options. I was thinking that if you would separate the QA lugs from the C then you would still have a good reference point to butt up too also. Think it may greatly depend on skill of the grinder operator and how good it was welded at factory. but it doesn't seem that there are too many welds in areas that would be too hard to get too. Like i said i have the 1250 that i can practice on getting it separated and if i scrap it then im not out anything.

[Mike McKown]

Why not cut the add on plate off and weld on a new axle pin bushing?

If you don't like the CC price ($30+) then get a large nut, bore the threads to the axle pin diameter and weld it on the frame.

[cubs-n-bxrs]

I just did the same repair on a 1450. I used a couple 1" shaft locking collars from McMaster Carr. I cut the old worn out collars off the channel and welded the lock collars in place of them. Then I used a piece of 1" stainless rod for a new axle pin. Cut pin to proper length and ground a couple flat spots on the ends and tightened up set screws already in the lock collars. Red locktited the set screws so they will never back out. Also ground some grease passages in the stainless axle pin. Don't use split lock collars get the solid ones. Plenty of meat on them to weld on. I used stainless rod because I already had it on hand. McMaster has the lock collars for about $2.10 apiece and a chunk of 1" hardened shaft for about $11. This route there is no scrapping anything.

[Shrewcub]

Originally Posted by cubs-n-bxrs

I just did the same repair on a 1450. I used a couple 1" shaft locking collars from McMaster Carr. I cut the old worn out collars off the channel and welded the lock collars in place of them. Then I used a piece of 1" stainless rod for a new axle pin. Cut pin to proper length and ground a couple flat spots on the ends and tightened up set screws already in the lock collars. Red locktited the set screws so they will never back out. Also ground some grease passages in the stainless axle pin. Don't use split lock collars get the solid ones. Plenty of meat on them to weld on. I used stainless rod because I already had it on hand. McMaster has the lock collars for about $2.10 apiece and a chunk of 1" hardened shaft for about $11. This route there is no scrapping anything.

Great idea Kelly! I was just looking at the axle on the 102 this morning. PO used a WF bolt and ground the end down. Did you clamp the channel when tightening the set screws?

[Terry C]

Have the shaft in place when you weld the collars, it will keep them lined up
It's a great idea you have there. Thanks for sharing

[cubs-n-bxrs]

Originally Posted by Shrewcub

Great idea Kelly! I was just looking at the axle on the 102 this morning. PO used a WF bolt and ground the end down. Did you clamp the channel when tightening the set screws?

Travis I used a shim washer to take care of the gap.

[cubs-n-bxrs]

Originally Posted by Terry C

Have the shaft in place when you weld the collars, it will keep them lined up
It's a great idea you have there. Thanks for sharing

Terry forgot to mention that.

[Jeff in Pa]

I made an extended axle pin and new collars for another forum member here and he was happy with them.

Jeff