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I sold a really nice 127 that I restored to get my 1450 and I now know that I made a big mistake with that decision.
I'd take that 127 again in a big hurry and have already started looking for a winter project.I'm on my 4th attempt over a 5 year period to fix the shakes on my 1450. What a pain in the behind! Like others, I've tried different mount styles but didn't really come across a major improvement. I tried a set of solid mounts but it really just changed the problem to different areas of the tractor at different rpm's. I'm undecided on whether I'd use them again, but it's a fairly easy swap out with the new style mounts (less than an hour). My K321 has balance gears and I've tried with/without those as well and decided to leave those in place as there seem's to be marginal improvement. I pulled the engine this past Saturday as I've gotten fed up with the shakes and think if I can get it to a reasonable level that it will be time to sell the tractor. I remember a saying or definition about stupidity where you keep dealing with the same thing over and over again and expecting a different result? I think this is the only fault with the QL's and apparently it's a widespread problem! This time I will throw the book at it! Use braced engine cradle (thanks Patton Acres), new cub ISO Mounts, new flex couplings on both ends of driveshaft, Indicating driveshaft between centers and checking for straightness and replacing if needed, Red silicone or stove door insulation between the rattling sheet metal, replacing headlight assembly with machined aluminum plate (ever notice how much those lights bounce around?), blue loctite on cast iron oil pan, rubber hose on cross spring that holds side panels, split rubber hose on bars that hold hood at corrrect height, and .... What am I missing? I would love to replace the piano hinge to the hood with something a little tighter. After 31 years, it's a little loose and has to be a source of noise. Any ideas? I read a post about lining the inside of the QL panels with a sound absorbing material but can't find it. Ring a bell with anyone? Those flex couplings are poorly made and have to be very inaccurate based on the new ones I just received. I'm looking at a U joint option, but the cost is not justifiable so far. Plus it will require some machined parts to make it work. Any ideas? Sorry to be so negative (realistic), I need to use my tractors as they need to justify their existence with swmbo. If you're comfortable with the amount of work required on your QL that's fine too! I've just decided to quit fighting with mine and find another vintage cub to play with. With that being said, when this tractor was operating "smoothly" it was great and I really like it. I agree that it's one of the best looking series cubs too. Thanks for listening to my rant...
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184, 1450, & 100. Unfortunately, not enough space to keep more! John - Grand Rapids, MI
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.
MTD Products, Inc. of Cleveland, Ohio purchased the Cub Cadet brand from International Harvester in 1981. Cub Cadet was held as a wholly owned subsidiary for many years following this acquisition, which allowed them to operate independently. Recently, MTD has taken a more aggressive role and integrated Cub Cadet into its other lines of power equipment.
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