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  #31  
Old 12-02-2014, 06:23 PM
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Alvy Alvy is offline
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Originally Posted by 64fleetside View Post
Spent Sunday afternoon fiddling with adjustments and got rid of Creep finally. Brakes seem somewhat touchy but I guess they will wear in some. Still haven't figggered out the lift deal but I have a spring to put in, maybe someone simply lost the spring out of the charge pump.
I remember a thread here somewhere about the replacement spring not fixing it and it ended up being shimmed or something to obtain the correct pressure. I could be wrong, did you say there was no spring in it though?
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  #32  
Old 12-02-2014, 10:03 PM
64fleetside 64fleetside is offline
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yes Alvy, no spring(nor a cone that I can tell) in the charge pump relief valve, but there is one up top in the implement relief valve. It's hard to see in there but I've put a magnet in there and found nothing. I tried a small spring but seems there is no cone. I'm guessing I need both-the charge relief valve must bump up the pressure for the implement lift to have more power. Creep keeps coming back.
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  #33  
Old 02-08-2015, 10:10 PM
64fleetside 64fleetside is offline
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As well as installing a stiffer spring in the implement relief, I ended up replacing the charge pump to repair the weak lift problem, apparently it had gotten hot or run dry at some time in its life, a new used one did the trick. Set the valves and speed to specs, it was idled too slow but dead on 3600 on high. I used this old school mechanical tachometer-sorry no action shots.
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  #34  
Old 04-19-2015, 01:58 PM
64fleetside 64fleetside is offline
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Added valve springs up under the rear of the seat, studded the rear cover for the tiller gearbox mount, a new starter solenoid and #4 cables throughout, welded up some worn mounting holes on the tiller so it would stop swaying, and got a new handle and bolt from Jeff so it now picks up higher than my rigged eyebolt. Finally got rid of Creep for good by replacing some of the trunnion parts. The groove was so worn the neutral "bump" was gone.
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  #35  
Old 04-19-2015, 03:52 PM
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Now it's up!
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  #36  
Old 04-19-2015, 04:15 PM
64fleetside 64fleetside is offline
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I could just barely get it about 2" off the ground before. I can get it on a trailer easier now-everyone wants a garden tilled.
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  #37  
Old 08-10-2015, 02:41 PM
64fleetside 64fleetside is offline
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Got the driveline sorted out, 338 U joint and a coupla yokes, used the rag joint up front, no more bolt.
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  #38  
Old 08-10-2015, 02:48 PM
64fleetside 64fleetside is offline
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Here it is in the tractor
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  #39  
Old 08-10-2015, 04:23 PM
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Looks good! Nice and clean.
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  #40  
Old 08-10-2015, 07:31 PM
64fleetside 64fleetside is offline
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Here it is from another angle. I turned the shaft around and used the rag joint up front and had the shaft grooved for a key, that way the shaft can slide up to be removed. An Allen head screw holds it to the shaft, and the rear yoke to the hydro has a bolt turned down like I had on it before. I really like that over beating coil pins in/out-but I hope this setup lasts so I don't have to do this again. I found this info on Dave Kamps cub cadet site and basically followed it with some differences.
I've been running my original wallered out shaft and a 1/4" bolt for months, gotta till, garden season you know. Finally everything is pretty much done due to the heat.
The fan is farther away but no disc is blocking it now.
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