Things to get into while I have the rear end out of my narrow frame?

DirtRodHillJack · #1 06-17-2015, 08:48 AM

I'm curious to know from those who've had lots of experience with these cubs. I've got the rear end out of my cub. Last night I pulled the axles to replace the axle seals.

And I went ahead and pulled the creeper drive off the front of the transmission. I'm glad I did, because it's lube situation was not good. More water than oil. No metal shavings. So I think it'll be OK with some fresh gear oil. I'm going to go ahead and replace the o-ring, input shaft seal and gasket for the creeper. The brass gear and roll-pin on the input shaft of the transmission look OK.

I haven't pulled the front cover all the way off the transmission. But I'm debating if I should so that I can get in an check the wet-brake lining. As well, I'm not sure if there's any other things I should go ahead and do while I'm in this far.

Also, is it a good idea to replace the axle retainer clips even if the originals seem OK?

Yosemite Sam · #2 06-17-2015, 12:45 PM

I've never seen worn out brake pucks in an internal brake trans-axle. But many times the plunger gets stuck in the bore and the "O ring on it often times needs to be replaced.

If you already have the axle tubes off, I would replace the axle bearings or bushings (depending on what model "Narrow Frame" you have).

I would also take the shifter off and check the shift forks to determine if they are loose, worn, bent or cracked (sometimes it is extremely difficult to tell if they are cracked without removing. them). Check the "ball" on the end of the shifter to make sure it isn't worn out and check the underside of the shifter cover to make sure it isn't cracked as so many do.

As long as you have the gear shift off, you may as well use that to your advantage when washing the trans-axle out.

Of coarse you, will check the condition of all the gears within to make sure there are no chipped or broken teeth and naturally you will want to replace any gaskets that you disturbed while giving the trans-axle a "going over".

TheSaturnV · #3 06-17-2015, 04:00 PM

Might do the gaskets on the carrier tubes...forgive if that's been mentioned already.

DirtRodHillJack · #4 06-17-2015, 09:50 PM

Really appreciate the input. I was pretty much expecting the brake to be a non-concern. But sometimes that kind of thinking can bite you in the rear.

I was actually trying to avoid pulling the axle tubes or splitting/opening more parts than necessary. I'll pull the shifter off the top tomorrow and look more into the transmission case. I'd like not to split off the reduction housing if I can avoid it.

About the axle bearings/bushings. I found out, to my surprise, that my 1964 model (100) still has brass bushings. I have a huge arbor press at my disposal. I could RTFM. But just thinking out loud here; If the brass bushing replacement is nothing more than press out old and press in new, I'll consider it. If it's press out old, press in new and then ream to size and check 50 times with a micrometer, I'm going to take more convincing.

Yosemite Sam · #5 06-17-2015, 10:56 PM

Press out press in and you're done.

I suggest bearing/bushings, because it they are worn very bad and you put new seals in, the axle could press against the top of the seal causing it to be egg shaped, thus wearing the top of the seal out and quite possibly leave a gap on the bottom between the axle and the rubber.

DirtRodHillJack · #6 06-19-2015, 03:13 PM

OK. Went to my local IH dealer and was looking into getting some new brass bushings. No go. Best I can get is generic non-fluted bushing or mill the tubes to accept needle bearings. Not sure if stock axles are hardened correctly for needle bearings even if I was to go to all that trouble. Going to require some more thought.

olds45512 · #7 06-19-2015, 03:47 PM

When it comes to the rear end I don't really mess with them at all unless there leaking or it pops out of gear.

Merk · #8 06-19-2015, 05:08 PM

You will have to bore or replace axle housing if you want to use bearings.

I wouldn't do anything to the bushings unless there is wear or loose axle. Changing the rear axle seals is a good thing to do.

The owners manual says to use Hy-Tran or SAE 30 oil. Fresh gear oil will cause more problems than it is worth.

Berwil · #9 06-20-2015, 12:46 AM

This may not get rave reviews, but I flipped the bushings in my O, left to right and upside down. They were only really wore on the top because that is where they ride. I couldn't justify a $50 set of bushings, and they came dimpled and grooved for a reason so I didn't go with a smooth generic bushing.

I just did it this week so I don't can't speak to how long it will last, but with the limited number of hrs I put on the machine each year, my bet is it will last awhile.

Bill

DirtRodHillJack · #10 06-20-2015, 08:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Berwil

This may not get rave reviews, but I flipped the bushings in my O, left to right and upside down. They were only really wore on the top because that is where they ride. I couldn't justify a $50 set of bushings, and they came dimpled and grooved for a reason so I didn't go with a smooth generic bushing.

I just did it this week so I don't can't speak to how long it will last, but with the limited number of hrs I put on the machine each year, my bet is it will last awhile.

Bill

After the dealer told me NLA, I had that thought run thorough my mind. It's only one side that noticeably worn. and I should be able to just rotate it 180* and get some more years out it.

Also, thanks Yosemite Sam for the vendor contact info. I'm not sure what I want to do yet. Old cubs are so common around here, I can probably buy a newer generation rolling chassis and rob the axle tubes off of it for pretty cheap.