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  #21  
Old 06-01-2015, 04:37 PM
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Cub Cadet 123 Cub Cadet 123 is offline
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Originally Posted by jimbob200521 View Post
My for what it's worth.

I had a 1450 that I put Moog bushings in as a cheaper alternative to the CC priced ISO's. Idle was shaky, mid was shaky, WOT was just fine. I tried different torque amounts on the ISO's and all had a similar effect.

All that being said, if I ever get a Quietline again I will be going solid.
That is the way my 1200 is right now. I thought I would be more proactive than reactive to the situation, if possible. I am considering solid mounts.

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  #22  
Old 06-01-2015, 04:39 PM
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That is the way my 1200 is right now. I thought I would be more proactive than reactive to the situation, if possible. I am considering solid mounts.

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You tried the Moog bushings as well you mean?
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  #23  
Old 06-01-2015, 04:42 PM
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You tried the Moog bushings as well you mean?
No, I just got this tractor last March and never had any problems with it other than a little puff of smoke, up until now. I have never replaced mounts in the QL's before.

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  #24  
Old 06-01-2015, 04:53 PM
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No, I just got this tractor last March and never had any problems with it other than a little puff of smoke, up until now. I have never replaced mounts in the QL's before.

Cub Cadet 123
It's not a bad job to do if you've ever removed an engine from a Cub before. It can just kind of be a pain if you have to tweak the mounts (torque) if you don't get it right pretty quick. And if you do that, you might as well do the brace. If you're going to do it, do it right the first time
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  #25  
Old 06-01-2015, 09:00 PM
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I beleive Jeffinpa makes solid mounts, check his thread in the resources page.

Bill
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Originally Posted by olds45512 View Post
Jeff in pa makes a mount kit, I suggest you contact him.
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Looks like great minds think alike.
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Thank you

My parts for sale thread http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=20875



Wide frame solid motor mounts with washers, Grade 8 flanged bolts and nylock nuts.

$43 shipped for set of four.
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  #26  
Old 06-01-2015, 10:10 PM
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Jeff is the cradle mod necessary with the solid mounts?
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  #27  
Old 06-01-2015, 11:05 PM
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Jeff is the cradle mod necessary with the solid mounts?
X2.....Great question DeltaCub!

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  #28  
Old 06-01-2015, 11:56 PM
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I replaced mine in the 1650 three + years ago with the CC ones, along with the cradle mod. Tightened them to I believe 1 1/2 or 2 1/2 threads and haven't touched them since. So I either got lucky, or I'm awfully good at it
I've got some vibration at lower throttle, but it's smooth as can be at WOT. And most times that's where it's at for mowing anyway....
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  #29  
Old 06-02-2015, 12:30 AM
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I'm pleased at the opinions and differences! It's my hope that I get to drive a QL with solid mounts installed. I really have to go tit-for-tat when it comes to whether or not genuine Cub Cadet ISO mounts "mess up everything" . I think some opinions are over stated, and made out to be a little more than what's fact. That statement is largely due to my personal facts having gone through my 1450 a good number of times from ground - up.

I would like to acknowledge the fact that these Kohler K321's and K341 AQS single-cylinder engines are real thumpers. Next, when you take into consideration the weak, deep-sump oil pans { compare to cast iron }, a bad cradle design { think cradle modification }, and top it all off with operator neglect { the people who can mess up a free lunch }, you may not have a high regard for the IH Cub Cadet Quiet Line series.

I have been around long enough to believe that the car suspension parts can work, that solid mounts can work, and that a mix of old iso mounts with new car suspension parts can work. And so do the new Cub Cadet ISO mounts. Alternatives are a wonderful discovery when it comes to our garden tractor replacement parts!

About the cradle modification. You are going to make sure to have the modification bar correctly positioned in regard to the engine pto. Also, you should take precaution that the cradle don't become deformed while welding. Even if you use the oil pan fastened as a jig, after its all said and done, the cradle to oil pan bolts may not align to start the fasteners evenly. The mod is good piece of mind, should you decide on it.

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  #30  
Old 06-02-2015, 07:18 AM
finsruskw finsruskw is offline
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Agreed, Johncub! The rear will pull together a tad from the welding process and will need to be tweaked just a hair to re-align the pan holes. If you bolt the rails to the pan before welding you will notice this when removing them.
Fact of life, stuff just happens.

Do this BEFORE you try to reinstall the engine or you will be taxing your 4 letter word vocabulary immediately!!

I am lucky in that my vice is tapped on the sides for 3/8 NC bolts, so I just bolt the rear rails to it and crank it apart till it fits. Your mileage will vary, I'm sure.
Good Luck!
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